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Routes in Mount Athelstan

Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: D Brayshaw, F Webb June 2001
Page Views: 540 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dru on May 1, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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This route is on the Fantastic Wall and climbs the face to the right of the giant moon-shaped sickle feature. Never very difficult, it wanders up the wall following lines of weakness and avoiding blank sections. More sustained and with less rubble than Moonraker, but otherwise pretty similar climbing.


Begin about 300m left of Moonraker and climb up right of a stepped overhanging corner to start. Above, follow nebulous line of least resistance. If it gets hard you are probably off route!

Bring crampons and ice axe for descent down the gully between this route and Randy Stoltmann Buttress. Also useful for the approach in early season.


Gear to 3" with no need for pins.