Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Bob Jasperson
Page Views: 577 total · 5/month
Shared By: Rich Kelly on Apr 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Climb up past steep hand crack (5.9-), and then head leftward up a nice and moderate groove/crack system. At its top, step awkwardly left to another shallow groove/corner that is a bit dirty. At its top is the crux bulge (place pro in undercling to the left) which will land you on the same ledge as the rappel tree of Original Route. Traverse left to the tree and belay.

Location

This is the crack just left of big roof (Wilford Roof) on right side of cliff. It is about 25' right of Original Route. Rap from Original Route's rappel tree (80').

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Save a 1.5-2" cam (green Camalot) to protect the top move via the undercling, or maybe the yellow alien for the open spot in the main crack. You will want something in up there! The move onto the slab is not hard, but it is psychological! Aug 10, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
The move up top Tony calls psychological was impossible for us today as the flat area was covered in ice. We had to do a 5.11 move to the left to get to the anchor. Jan 29, 2016