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Double Vision [Suggest Change]
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Observatory Rock
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99% Pure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flop, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glass Bead Game, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jonah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mineral Secretion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Panic in the Gray Womb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Punch Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skin Mechanic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stargazing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Telescoping Sum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Will Chevy Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett and Bob Jasperson, 2002. |
| Page Views: | 518 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Apr 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description [Suggest Change]
Climb a semi-polished face with slanting cracks and seams up to the base of the roof. Scrunch to the right, under the roof, and arrange protection in the incipient crack in the roof (I stuffed a #0.5 Camalot and an orange TCU in the best pod).
Crank over the roof either slightly left to a hand-sized crack, or slightly right to other features. Either way it is fairly powerful. The crux for me was getting established above the roof.
Keep climbing straight up to a ramp with several cracks. It is probably best to set a belay here and bring your partner up, or continute straight up the slab or slightly left up a seam in the slab.
Ultimately, you are headed up and left to the tree with slings above Original Route, where you can rap approximately 100' to the ground.
Crank over the roof either slightly left to a hand-sized crack, or slightly right to other features. Either way it is fairly powerful. The crux for me was getting established above the roof.
Keep climbing straight up to a ramp with several cracks. It is probably best to set a belay here and bring your partner up, or continute straight up the slab or slightly left up a seam in the slab.
Ultimately, you are headed up and left to the tree with slings above Original Route, where you can rap approximately 100' to the ground.
Location [Suggest Change]
This is at the very far right side of Observatory Rock, about 50 feet to the right of Original Route and Will Chevy Slab. You can't miss it -- there are 3 cracks going out a big roof. Gets morning sun, afternoon shade.
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