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Routes in Observatory Rock

99% Pure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flop, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glass Bead Game, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jonah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mineral Secretion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panic in the Gray Womb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Punch Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Mechanic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stargazing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telescoping Sum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Will Chevy Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett (with Paul Bodnar? 2003?)
Page Views: 824 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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I probably would have liked it better if I was good at this sort of climbing, but I am not. This is the bolted line of eyebrows and edges just right of the Original Route on Observatory. I spent most of the time on it just hoping I would not slip off the nearly invisible holds! The crux is moving up off of holds that you feel you are perilously clinging to with friction, going to even smaller holds.


This route is on the right side of the main wall (left half) of the crag and just right of Original Route it follows a line of bolts up the right side of a smooth slab to a tree with a belay/rap station.


6 good bolts on a slab, not always overhead. Small cams or nuts protect a few tricky moves to get onto it.


Rich Kelly
Rich Kelly   Boulder
Extremely thin! You only need gear getting to the 1st bolt and between the 1st and 2nd bolt (small cams). Crux is at 3rd bolt. Awkward getting to the 1st bolt and tricky getting (5.10) past it. Apr 30, 2009
. . . CO
  5.11 R
nruea   . . . CO
  5.11 R
Yup, looks like 5.8 from the ground.
Partner and I both thought 5.11, with an awkward but fun start to the first bolt that felt liek 5.10 - used a Lowe-ball and a blue Alien.
Desperare feeling friction work and nickel edges up higher.
Don't know why it's so RO between bolt 2 and 3, but it was sure freaky!, esp. being that it felt like the crux section.

Fun, demanding slab-work for the second, or on TR. Jun 27, 2010
Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
Painful and strenuous on the feet. The guidebook gives it 10d, which is about right for a slab, I think. The top, while slightly easier, has much worse rock. Apr 19, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This definitely looks easier from the ground than it really is. I would certainly call it a 5.11 slab! Jan 29, 2016
western NC --> Broomfield, CO
nbrown   western NC --> Broomfield, CO
Fun, thin edging on this one. By most slab standards, it is very well-protected. 5.10+ seemed about right as well. Sep 2, 2018

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