Type: Snow, Alpine, 3800 ft, Grade III
FA: First ascent of the Northwest slopes to the Northeast Ridge is unknown. The Northeast Ridge was first climbed by S.Turner, W. Basset, J Hough, and C.S
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Shared By: Tony Yeary on Apr 17, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

Ishinca 5530m
Northwest Slopes

Ishinca is one of the easier peaks and a good acclimatization climb. Great views of Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju and the Quebrada Cojup! If you are fit, Ishinca, like Urus Este, can be easily done in a day from base camp. A high camp near the small lake up the side valley makes this an enjoyable acclimatization outing.Easy snow and glacier climbing, except for the summit pitch, which is steep and a bit exposed.
From the footbridge, follow the trail on the right side of the stream. Just past the large boulders of the base camp area, the trail begins to gain altitude and eventually switchbacks up the slope to the right into a side valley with a small stream. Continue to follow the trail up this side valley past a meadow and more switchbacks. As the trail swings to the left across the mouth of the canyon, it passes through a rocky area which levels out at a small lake. Here the trail splits and the right branch takes you to the Southwest Ridge of Ishinca and Ranrapalca. Here you have a great view of Ranrapalca and the Ingament hut on the crest of the moraine just above. Continue to follow the smaller trail out across the basin and around the lake. Near the head of the lake you cross the inlet stream and look ahead and a bit to your left for cairns and a feint trail leading up hill to the toe of the glacier. 2-3 hours from base camp.
Begin climbing up glacier slightly trending to the right as you go. Easily passing some crevasses as you work your way toward the North Ridge. Here the glacier levels off and you can see the summit with the rock band on the north face. Make an end run around the rock face to the right side and climb the final 45-50 degree, 300 feet snow and ridge to the summit. Note; the right side of this final section is corniced. Take care not to climb to close to the edge on your right. Descend by the same route or, better, continue over the summit and down the Southwest Ridge for a great traverse of Ishinca.

Protection

Ice axe, rope crampons.

Photos