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Routes in Ishinca Valley

Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes Easy Snow
Karma de los Cóndores T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 M3
Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. Easy Snow
Tocllaraju Northwest Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
Urus Central (South Face) AI2-3 M2+ Steep Snow R
Urus Este, West Face M5 Steep Snow
West Face Indirect Steep Snow
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft
FA: August 1975, M. Johns, C. Slaymaker, M. Rourke.
Page Views: 1,844 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 17, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

A direct line on the imposing North Face. This is a fast route, with most of the climbing on 40-75degree neve. Easier than it looks, logical weaknesses break through three rock bands with brief sections of good climbing on shattered granite. Good exposure throughout. Recent rapid decreases in ice cover have revealed more rock, making climbing more difficult than the original given grade (during the dry season). On the first rock band we encountered some climbing on verglas over slab(our crux). The second rock band is passed by some very enjoyable moderate mixed climbing. The third features a few body lengths of featured, vertical rock(classically the crux). In well-iced conditions this route could be very easy. It will continue to get more interesting as conditions on this sensitive route change.

note: this is a north aspect, so expect sweltering midday sun. get an early start on a cold day to avoid falling stuff

Location

Approach as for the normal route on Ishinca, eventually turning right and sidehilling above large boulders. Go through a distinctive dip in the North Rib and down a bit to a place to camp at about 5200 meters. A snow apron takes you back left to a brief mixed ramp, and then a direct line up the rest of the face.

At the summit plateau, true summit is visible to the SW. We did not go there. Snow conditions permitting, it would not be difficult, just tiring.

Descend via NW face route with rappels, then down climbing, then an ice fall maze and traverse around near the summit of Ischinca.

If acclimated, ballpark it at 8-12hrs up, 5-8hrs down.

Protection

Minimal rock rack with pins and wires. Plan to solo or simul the steep neve. No ice of sustained difficulty, 1-3 screws. Bring 1-3 pickets.

Photos

Bogdan P
Boulder, CO
 
Bogdan P   Boulder, CO
 
We spent the afternoon/evening prior on the ridge at the base of the face, watching it flush snow and rocks down multiple avalanche paths. The avalanches were seemingly continuous, but watching them was very helpful for deciding how to negotiate the face the following day to avoid those same paths. The serac like glacier below the second rock band (visible in "da betahsss" picture here) looked safer to turn on the right during our ascent for instance.

As far as gear we found 3 pickets and cams from 0.3-1 to be sufficient. No wires, no pins. You should have two screws like you normally would for glacier travel, but otherwise they're not needed. Jun 14, 2018

More About Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face

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