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Routes in Ishinca Valley

Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes
Karma de los Cóndores T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI3 M3
Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts.
Tocllaraju Northwest Ridge AI2-3
Urus Central (South Face) AI2-3 M2+ R
West Face Indirect
Type: Alpine, 3100 ft, Grade III
FA: July 18th, 1957 V. Day, F. Henostroza, A.Jamanca, T. McCormick, and A. Morales
Page Views: 1,908 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tony Yeary on Mar 6, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

Urus Este, 5420 meters
Southeast slopes to East Ridge
PD- Elevation gain, 1040 meters
Time 5 hours approx. from base camp

From the footbridge crossing the stream, follow the trail toward the Ishinca Refugio. Just as you approach the hut, to the left you will see a sign, Urus Este. This marks the beginning of the trail leading up through bushes and gullies to the moraine coming down from Urus Este.
Follow the moraine crest, more or less upward. Near the top, the moraine curves to the right and levels off. After about 300 feet, follow cairns on slabs out left, up to the toe of the glacier.
Climb 45* snow along the left side of a rock buttress for about 300 feet. At this point you will cross over the buttress on slabs to the snow slopes on the Southeast side of the peak. Climb this snow field for about 600 feet toward a small rock buttress. Angle up and left passing under the rock buttress. Climb the final 45* slopes of the East Ridge to the summit. In dryer years there will be much exposed rock here (a bit loose!) and easy scrambling takes you to the top.

Ref. Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca
Brad Johnson, 2003

Protection

Ice axe, Rope, crampons, couple of pickets.
Chris C.
Seattle, WA
 
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
 
Fun acclimatization climb, more interesting than Ishinca. If I were to do it again, I'd stash trail runners at the end of the approach because descending the loose trail it in mountain boots sucked the life blood from our team. Jun 29, 2017