AI2-3 Steep Snow
Avg: 3.6 from 13 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 8000 ft|
|FA:||W Brecht & H Schweizer (1939)|
|Page Views:||3,009 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||Sarah Meiser on Aug 19, 2016 with 2 Suggestions|
From high camp plod toward the base of the northwest ridge. Sometimes it is possible to shortcut and gain the ridge about 1/3 of the way up by climbing 45 degree snow slopes through seracs. This variation saves some time if in condition.
Once on the ridge follow it to the summit pyramid. This final obstacle is brief but fairly difficult, earning the route its D rating. Conditions vary widely. Most route descriptions describe two pitches of 55 degree snow and ice including two bergschrund crossings. In July 2016 (which was very dry) the route did an exposed traverse left on ice and rotten snow to avoid the higher bergshrund. Reaching the true summit also required a substantial crevasse jump at this time.
Parties typically use one camp above base camp to climb Tocllaraju. In years past this camp was on the glacier below the west face. In 2016 it was on the moraine at 16,700 ft. I suspect this is due to the fact that the glaciers are rapidly receding.