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Routes in Y-Crack Boulder

Chockstones on my Mind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corona Club S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jam on Jam T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Send it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short But Nasty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasha's Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Timed Release T A3
Turtle Piss S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Pete Noebels, Dennis Abbink, Larry Treiber
Page Views: 2,094 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ryan Myers on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

BURLY... good luck

Protection

Big gear if youre going to try and lead it... best to climb Turtles Piss on the backside and top-rope Y crack

Photos

Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
 
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
 
Sandbag! Finally got up this climb with two #6's which worked out great. You could do one #6 and easily walk it too. No big bro's necessary. Oct 26, 2014
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it. Jan 15, 2013
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.9
Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5. Apr 19, 2012
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.10a
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.10a
1 x #2, #3 big bros, and a #5 should protect it to where it thins out for a standard rack. Finished left.

The majority of the climb is actually a lieback on a flake. The flake disappears for 6'ish feet in the middle and it's stiff 10 offwidth. Getting in and coming out of the OW sections are the crux. I climbed it right side in and it was tough. My partner couldn't get up it, and went left side in to much more success. Oct 30, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
Being the follower on Roman's lead, can safely say "better him than me!" Yuck, and it was the second time we'd both climbed that awful crack. Must there be a third? Hell no, and I don't think I'll ever feel like leading it. Roman used a big bro down low, walked a #5, and then #4 with a couple #3's and maybe a smaller one tucked away up top. Hated trying to clean while also trying to stay in the grungy crack. Dec 6, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.9+
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.9+
Finally led this thing yesterday, and felt like throwing up at the top. Feels like the definition of 5.9+

I used a #3 big bro at the bottom (not really necessary) and then pushed an old #5 camalot (green) through the wide section until I could get a new #5 (purple) in. I think I used a .75, 2, and 3 for the top section. Dec 6, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
What is the gear beta? Can you get away with a coupla #5 C4s, or is a #6 strictly necessary? I guess I could always do the honorable thing and just attempt it with what I have. Sep 21, 2009