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Routes in Y-Crack Boulder

Chockstones on my Mind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corona Club S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jam on Jam T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Send it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short But Nasty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasha's Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Timed Release T A3
Turtle Piss S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 700 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Feb 6, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts with a lieback, then move to a finger crack about 12 feet off of the deck. This is really your first option to place pro unless you bring micronuts, and getting up to crack is the crux of the climb (I fell twice on a #4 BD micronut). After you get established in the crack it gets a little thin, but there's good stances all the way up. Back boulder is off (if you can even reach it). Shares anchors with Turtle Piss off to the left. TR works fine with this one, but a directional piece is a must if you are going to do this. Send it!

Location

Northeast side of the Y-Crack boulder. It is the thin right leaning crack just to the right of Jam on Jam.

Protection

Small; 1 micronut, .5"-1.5"

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
A boulder problem to a jug and great gear. Jan 15, 2013