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Routes in Y-Crack Boulder

Chockstones on my Mind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corona Club S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jam on Jam T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Send it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short But Nasty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasha's Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Timed Release T A3
Turtle Piss S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: 8/87 by Phil Falcone & Ted Olsen
Page Views: 1,289 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Feb 13, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Difficult from the start and consistently requires that the climber use subtle layback and crabbing to make the thin holds work. If only it were a little longer!

Follow the thin seam up a vertical face.

Location

a few feet right of Turtle Piss on the North side of the Y-Crack Boulder.

Protection

Two bolts.

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
Another sandbag. This easily goes at 10a. Good delicate sequences though. Fun climb. Nov 15, 2015
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Start to the left of the bolt line only moving right at the finish. Jan 15, 2013
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.8
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.8
The start is definitely the crux. There are plenty of good holds as long as your'e conscious of sequence. Much easier than the starts to both Birthday Party and Mickey Mantle. Oct 30, 2011
Please see my Turtle Piss comments. The same applies; however, this route has fewer hand and foot holds. Often all you can find for hand or foot is a ripple in the rock and you sort of balance up the climb as something yellow trickles down your leg. It is the hardest 5.8 I have ever climbed. Mar 12, 2009