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Routes in Y-Crack Boulder

Chockstones on my Mind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corona Club S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jam on Jam T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Send it T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short But Nasty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tasha's Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Timed Release T A3
Turtle Piss S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 387 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jonathan Croom on Jan 8, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Aid pin scarred seam.

There's no fixed anchor, so build a gear anchor then walk over the top and rap from bolts on the other side. Alternate: my partner didn't want to follow it, so I threw a sling over a slopey horn at the top, rapped, then flipped it off with the rope from the base.

Location

On the south side of the boulder behind the Y-Crack boulder.

Protection

Sawn off angles, LA's, beaks. 1 set cams from tiny to .4. Only need a couple pins if you're taking the hammer. Potentially clean with ball nuts or cam hooks.

Photos

No need for cut angles, LA's, or beaks. This route can be done as an A1-C1 on 4-knifeblades, a couple of TCU's, a .4 and .75 cam. There are no anchors on the top so we used the anchors/rap for Tasha's Tower... The top of the route is a little crumbly so take your time. Mar 21, 2016
apoet
AZ
  C2-
apoet   AZ
  C2-
Medium/small offset aliens and small totems were nice in the bigger scars from midway up to the top. Beaks or KBs for the lower 1/3 of the climb seem necessary (I tried to hand place two beaks which pulled). Two long slings, one for midway and one for the very top. There was at least one pin scar where I couldn't get anything but a sawed off angle to stick. There is a placement for .4/.5 C4 up top, and then free climbing above a sling-able crumbly feature to the top.

Let me know if anyone has tips for leading this clean. The top shouldn't be too difficult, but the bottom section feels insecure with anything I have tried. Aug 12, 2016
I've been thinking about trying the route clean as well. Two ideas:

I'm thinking small ball nuts in the parallel LA scars on the bottom part, which are too small for a grey C3 and wont take micro nuts

Cam hooks utilizing those same placements. I haven't been on the route since I got my cam hooks so I haven't tried it, but I think it would work well. (Be careful of ground fall potential, its short so if one placement ripped you might deck)

I can get a cam in the scar off the deck, then a big reach to sling the horn right of the crack. After that I think one or two moves off ball nuts/cam hooks would get you to the part that takes cams well. I'd be interested to hear if you do get it clean. I'll be back this winter and might try it again. Aug 12, 2016
apoet
AZ
  C2-
apoet   AZ
  C2-
Did it clean with my brother today. Here is the rack we used:

2 narrow camhooks (essential for first half of the route)

2 small BD Peckers (hand place low on the route)

1 grey BD C3 (useful near the bottom)

1 each: blue/green, green/yellow, yellow/grey, and grey/red offset Alien

1 each: blue and green Alien

1 blue Totem (not the basic)

2 long runners (one for large knob low on route, one to sling the very top)

9/3/16 Edit: A blue ball nut is useful in the KB scars. Medium Peckers may work better than small on some placements but I haven't tried. Aug 27, 2016

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