[Hide Comment] What is the gear beta? Can you get away with a coupla #5 C4s, or is a #6 strictly necessary? I guess I could always do the honorable thing and just attempt it with what I have. Sep 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] Finally led this thing yesterday, and felt like throwing up at the top. Feels like the definition of 5.9+

I used a #3 big bro at the bottom (not really necessary) and then pushed an old #5 camalot (green) through the wide section until I could get a new #5 (purple) in. I think I used a .75, 2, and 3 for the top section. Dec 6, 2009

[Hide Comment] Being the follower on Roman's lead, can safely say "better him than me!" Yuck, and it was the second time we'd both climbed that awful crack. Must there be a third? Hell no, and I don't think I'll ever feel like leading it. Roman used a big bro down low, walked a #5, and then #4 with a couple #3's and maybe a smaller one tucked away up top. Hated trying to clean while also trying to stay in the grungy crack. Dec 6, 2009

[Hide Comment] 1 x #2, #3 big bros, and a #5 should protect it to where it thins out for a standard rack. Finished left.

The majority of the climb is actually a lieback on a flake. The flake disappears for 6'ish feet in the middle and it's stiff 10 offwidth. Getting in and coming out of the OW sections are the crux. I climbed it right side in and it was tough. My partner couldn't get up it, and went left side in to much more success. Oct 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5. Apr 19, 2012

[Hide Comment] Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it. Jan 15, 2013

[Hide Comment] Sandbag! Finally got up this climb with two #6's which worked out great. You could do one #6 and easily walk it too. No big bro's necessary. Oct 26, 2014

[Hide Comment] 2x#6’s with a lot of bumping is legit solid. Perfect size for the crack.

Be mindful of how the rope will pull through for TR/follower. There’s a shit ton of friction from where the anchor is and how the rope has to go around a bulge + how the rope with pull with your last piece. Rope shenanigans can happen if you’re not careful. Oct 18, 2019

[Hide Comment] +1 on Peter F’s comment, this crack takes #6 cams and nothing bigger. Singles of 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 will get you up this just fine. Double up the 6 if you’re uncomfortable bumping. A big tube chock, titon or hex fits beautifully in the overhang at the top for some added fun instead of the #3. On that note, I’d love to hear about what obsolete gear this route was put up on. Anyone know?

This climb is a true Phoenix classic and I hope others enjoy it as much as it deserves. The Y is a great intro to OWs because it protects well the whole way and is so aesthetic it’s easy to get psyched about it.

Lastly, I don’t think this route is sandbagged. I’m not an expert by any means but in comparison to a lot of other OWs I’ve done, I think this one feels spot on at 9+ to me. I’d like to see people try to lieback a 5.10 like they do on the Y. For those that don’t climb OWs much, expect them to feel hard until you learn the proper techniques (I feel same type of way about roof climbs). All said, don’t be shy to get out there, struggle, and learn something different than crimping. Nov 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] Sam is spot on. This is one of the easiest offwidths I've ever been on. No need to layback until you get just above the #5 section. For me the crux was the topout. Every part is fun, and it has a little bit of everything. I've been on it many times over the years, and my performance usually seems to be influenced by core strength more than anything. Oh and I heard a critical hold broke off in 2019? Nov 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] Good ol' 5.9 OW... Lead it! No Big Bros are needed. One #5 and one #6 did the trick whilst in the PHAT. Feb 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] Fair for 5.9 OW. Used (in order) 6,5,4,1,2. Left side in with the flake and some chicken wing technique makes this pretty cruiser. Crux is definitely awkwardly hauling your butt over the top. Mar 23, 2020

[Hide Comment] This route is awesome! I bumped a 6 till I couldn’t, great gear after. The top out is pretty awkward as is the rest of the route! A second #6 cam was useful at the top! Apr 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] I would also like to add that in regards to the anchor and setting up a TR do not use the corona club anchors. There is a single ring above the Y crack top to the right. Use this ring and a piece or two, I used the single ring and a #6 bd and top rope wasn’t that bad. Apr 21, 2020