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Routes in Grandma Peabody Boulder

Baburre V12 8A+
Center Direct V10 7C+
Essential Peabody V0 4
Go Granny Go V5 6C
Go Granny Go Right Finish (V5) V5 6C
Go Granny Ho V7 7A+
Magnetic North V8 7B
Mystery V12 8A+
North Face Direct V2 5+
SE Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream V4 6B
Southwest Arete T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thunderbird V11 8A
West Corner V3-4 6A+
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,021 total · 18/month
Shared By: Andrew R on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Tackles the belly on the north face of Grandma Peabody straight on. Begin directly under the bulge with both hands in the large undercling. Hard pulls (made easier with some foot tricks) lead to a small crimp or gaston and a grainy undercling. Make a brutal deadpoint to latch a thin, glassy crimp, then slap out left to huecos and good patina. Continue as for North Face Direct if you please, or drop off.

Location [Edit]

Out the steep bulge on Grandma Peabody, trending up and slightly left.

Protection [Edit]

A few pads are nice, and a spot for the crux moves.

Photos

Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
I believe the FA of the original line (pre-break) was Peter Croft. Mar 7, 2013
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
What does center direct into magnetic north go at? name? Feb 13, 2018

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