Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,540 total · 30/month
Shared By: MarcDS on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This classic problem lies on the right side of the northwest face of Grandma Peabody. Sit start about eight feet left of the West Corner problem. Crimp up thin golden patina edges to some incut rails that lead up and right. From the end of the rails, move straight up to the crescent moon shaped hold above (either sidepull or gaston) and make a big reach up to jugs (crux). Continue up and right on big holds to a pair of jugs about eleven feet up (same finishing holds as the West Corner.) Drop off from here. It may be possible to top out by continuing ten more feet up the juggy rails, then rocking onto the grainy slab above. This finish may or may not have been done. (V? R/X)

Photos

A B
Boulder, CO
 
A B   Boulder, CO
 
I tried the highball finish talked about here, but got freaked out with only one pad and 25 feet of air under my heels. When I dropped off, I missed the pad (of course...) but it was sooooo good until then Aug 28, 2009
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V5
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V5
Benchmark V5 for the area imo. Very nice line.... May 21, 2014
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA
Ashley Swenson   Pasadena, CA
youtu.be/IK2IMzYsh9Y Dec 8, 2018