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Routes in Grandma Peabody Boulder

Center Direct V10 7C+
Essential Peabody V0 4
Go Granny Go V5 6C
Go Granny Go Right Finish (V5) V5 6C
Go Granny Ho V7 7A+
Magnetic North V8 7B
Mystery V12 8A+
North Face Direct V2 5+
SE Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slipstream V4 6B
Southwest Arete T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
West Corner V3-4 6A+
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,883 total, 17/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This line is either a 5.10 solo or toprope.

An awesome, bouldery move down low pulling onto the arete (over sloping ground and a pile of cheater stones) is the physical crux, but the top is what packs the punch. I've onsight freesoloed several 5.9s and 10s, particularly in Eldorado Canyon, Colo., and I had to take a long pause and some big breaths before the sequential, steep-slab finish on this one.

This route provided one of my most rewarding experiences during my four-day visit, but I won't say I'm going to climb it again any time soon.

Location

East of the SW Arete, all by its lonesome where no one will see you fall or hear you scream.

Protection

There are bolts for toproping, but who brings a rope to the Peabodies these days?

Photos

D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
A good photo of the route is Blitzo's black-and-white that's included with the main description of the Grandma Peabody boulder. See the line in the middle where the white meets the black? Follow that, stepping up and right near the top. Oct 22, 2008