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Routes in Jellystone Southwest Face

Comedic Timing T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comedy Club T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cricket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Improv T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Palm Pilot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Place holder 1 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Place holder 10 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place holder 11 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Place holder 12 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Place holder 13 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Place holder 14 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Place holder 15 T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Place holder 16 T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Place holder 17 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Place holder 18 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Place holder 19 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Place holder 2 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Place holder 20 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Place holder 21 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Place holder 22 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Place holder 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Place holder 4 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Place holder 5 TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Place holder 6 TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Place holder 7 TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Place holder 8 T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Place holder 9 TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Slapshot II TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slapstick S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Toiling Midgets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Erik Kramer-Webb
Page Views: 495 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 6, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a 3 bolt direct start to Toiling Midgets (5 bolts total to a 2-bolt anchor).

Begin just left of Cricket with well-protected face climbing and stemming. At the third bolt move left (crux) and up to the second bolt of Toiling Midgets. From here a friction move to the right (height dependent,10-) leads to a crack (1 to 2 inch CD useful here). The roof is protected by a bolt, and easier than it looks if you surmount it from the right (5.8).

Protection

5 bolts, 1 to 2 inch CD, 2 bolt belay/rap anchor.

Photos

Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
5.10d
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
5.10d
5.10d. There are no rests on this route. Between bolt 2 and 3 involves serious stemming then getting in position for bolt 4 is another challenge.

STAY RIGHT after that. Can't move directly up cause we know. We did it last spring and a key foothold gaining the roof broke off. Now you need to stay right to gain it. There are still moves there to get it and the moves below are still the crux moves but the roof is harder now. Nov 12, 2012
Cho
Cho  
Good route, well protected. Edging down low, then stemming and body english to get you through the crux. The rock is a little flaky, but should clean up with more ascents. I broke a foot hold off the roof section, but there are other options up there. Gets a lot of sun, so nice for the colder months. Oct 5, 2012