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Routes in Fat Freddie’s Cat

Bookman Pitman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Broken Bits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lust In The Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Night Owl TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face , The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Time Avenger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dave Evan, Margy Floyd & Craig Fry, 4/85
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Jan 19, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux comes at the point where the nice tips to fingers crack flares out and you have to do some fun yet interesting stemming/smearing moves on small edges to surmount. You need a 70m if you are going to the block at the top, or you can stop at the obvious ledge about 20 feet above where the crack peters out.

Location

The route is 30 feet to the right of The North Face and follows the obvious corner. Be careful the rock is exfoliating in places below the corner....

Protection

Pro is good the biggest piece I used was a .75 Camalot, the rest was small nuts (#5 and smaller). The anchor was a flared out crack but I got in 2 #1 and a #2, totally bomber.

Photos

Chris D
the couch
  5.7 PG13
Chris D   the couch
  5.7 PG13
This climb might be 5.6 if you spend your climbing days stemming out on steep dihedrals, but if that's not the case, be prepared for an eye-popping surprise. Bartlett's book calls it 5.7 PG in the text, then it's labeled 5.6 on the topo and in the index.

Be a solid 5.7 leader before heading up this short, fun route. That's my tip. The lieback moves that get you up to the crux are fun and pretty easy. You'll find the crack just right for fingers and plenty deep.

Here's a bit of video that a friend took of me flailing past the crux move on this climb. Ha!

Passing the Crux on Bookman Pitman from Chris Diersen on Vimeo. Feb 28, 2010