Broken Bits
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04347, -116.14372 |
| FA: | Don Wilson & Jack Marshall, November 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,055 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Interesting Joshua Tree face climbing, though the start, which traverses a bit, is fairly traditionally bolted and the slab is still exfoliating to some degree. Falling before the 3rd bolt would not be recommended. Continues up, trending right near a gully/chimney. Follow left of the chimney up to a large ledge.
Either scramble right to the anchor on Early Bird (2 rope rap), or downclimb off the back.
Location
On Fat Freddies Cat, up the gully a little bit (the next face) from Early Bird. You can either start off a boulder leaning near the main face, or use the first two bolts of a line to the left (Time Avenger 5.11b), then traverse right and up on the slab.



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