Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fat Freddie’s Cat

Bookman Pitman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Broken Bits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lust In The Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Night Owl TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face , The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Time Avenger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cole, Carrignan
Page Views: 2,097 total, 12/month
Shared By: David Evans on May 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This awesome route starts out of a cave in an arching thin hands to hands crack. At the end of this crack step left onto a sloping ledge and belay. The second pitch either goes straight up to a short overhanging crack or, better yet, step to the right and climb beautiful gray varnished face protected by stoppers up to the steep crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2.5".

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
A fun route, easily done in a single pitch. The Rap slings at the top of the route looked dicey (and two ropes needed -- 145 foot rap). Down climb (up to summit, then down gully to the west) is a bit involved, but easy enough.

Maybe my expectations were high given all the praise for this route. Though it seemed good, not a mega classic. Maybe I'm jaded. Oct 8, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Great route! As mentioned, can easily be done as a single pitch as far as length goes, but rope drag can be heinous. Alternate descent: rap off of fixed webbing knot (yikes!) which I replaced 10/11/03. Oct 23, 2003
Murf  
Sorry, if done in 1 pitch a 55m or 60m rope would be helpful. Also, long downclimb meaning it took 10 or 15 minutes, not that it was challenging. May 19, 2003
Murf  
A shady blessing on a hot day, reveled in the chilled air under the detached pillar! Thought the layback at the start was the hardest bit, although marked 5.8 in guide. Did it in one pitch, long runners required, quite fun that way.Downclimb was kinda long, must have missed the good one. May 19, 2003
David Evans  
 
If I remember correctly there was a bit of a race to do the FA of this climb. I think Kevin Powell had his eye on it but Charles and Kelley got there first and bagged the coveted FA. Hence, the Early Bird got the Worm! May 15, 2003