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Routes in Fat Freddie’s Cat

Bookman Pitman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Broken Bits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lust In The Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Night Owl TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face , The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Time Avenger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey 03-1987, FFA: Bob Gaines, February 1988
Page Views: 151 total, 4/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Feb 19, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The FA was done on a very cold, windy day and for the sake of expediency, the party pulled on a bolt at the crux to reach the top and get back to warmth. Before the party could return to free the aided move, face climbing master Bob Gaines repeated the route and unwittingly grabbing the FFA.

This face route starts from a boulder about 30 feet up and left of Early Bird. The route climbs the long, mostly varnished face past about seven bolts.

Location

Start on top of a boulder about 30 feet up and left of Early Bird and about 25 feet up and left of an obvious chimney (Ravenswood 5.8).

Protection

Seven or so bolts and some small to medium gear should protect the route.

Photos

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Bob Gaines
  5.11b PG13
Bob Gaines  
  5.11b PG13
This slab climb has some very nice patina.

Shares the first 2 bolts with Broken Bits, then moves up and left to a 3rd bolt. Bolts 3,4,5 and 6 are closely spaced, with the crux climbing just right from the 5th bolt then back up and left to the 6th bolt.

Runnout, but easier climbing past a 7th bolt leads to the top (gear anchor). Feb 20, 2015