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Routes in Holiday Block

Gravy Train T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney Approach T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinco de Mayo T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cruise This S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Tuesday T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Launchitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark's Menace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Dog Has Fleas S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Never Believe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oyster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rabies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandrewf T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Tales From the Hard Side S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
They Call Me Cruiser T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Dog T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg, Curtis Glass - 1990
Page Views: 3,423 total, 31/month
Shared By: A. Hamiter on Nov 28, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

10b atop the boulder and 10c from the ground. Move into a sidepull sloper on the 2nd bolt and go to a huge pocket just right of the 3rd bolt. Reposition your feet and turn that pocket into an undercling, roll your body up and over the first shelf and you can rest on the ledge before making the final moves. The top is very juggy but becomes reachy with good feet all the way to the shuts.

Location

Holiday Block. far left route and easiest one on the face next to Plush and Never Believe

Protection

Standard rack; open shuts for anchors.
Michael Dom
  5.10c/d
Michael Dom  
  5.10c/d
Really fun route, no reason to avoid this regardless of the bolting or not. Jan 18, 2016
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Re-tro-bolt. Listed as trad for sympathy towards history. Reality is a pained existence at Cherokee Rock Village. All hail the sport climber. Nov 25, 2015
Someone put a chalk X on one of the mondo (but fairly crucial) lower jugs below the first bolt. To avoid it you basically HAVE to start from on top of the boulder. We tried weighing it an it seemed fine. Does anyone know why it was Xed?

Also, this has been fully bolted, it should be classified as a sport route. Nov 23, 2015
gohard  
Take advantage of the rest...you'll need it to finish Jul 2, 2015
Right open shut is a spinner but seems ok. Did it on bolts, looking forward to doing it on gear. Mar 21, 2013
I love Johny Arms, but he didnt get the FA. I believe thats reserved for Atlanta hardman Shannon Stegg. Dec 6, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Having done this one on gear, I would say a bolt at the crux is not a bad idea. The gear placement to protect the first big roof move is in a very pebbly pocket. If this gear were to rip because of one of the pebbles dislodging, it would surely kill or seriously jack up the leader because of that giant boulder looming in the fall zone. Aug 22, 2012
Bolts or not, a really fun route. I've never led it completely clean, but I love to try at the end of climbing days when everyone else had cashed out. Well done Johnny Arms, one of my favorite routes at sand rock. Jun 26, 2012
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
  5.10c/d
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
  5.10c/d
Interesting history. What a great route. Jonnny said he bolted it because it wasn't getting climbed. Now somebody is always on it when I pass by. Aug 9, 2010
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
 
Chris Blanchard   Anacortes, WA
 
The new route name for this is Don't Trad On Me. Cinco de Mayo is the old trad name, but since it has been bolted Johnny Arms (who named it the first time), renamed it to Don't Trad On Me. May 8, 2010
its an awkward thang, blocky, i doubt itll ever get climbed on gear agian, except maybe for nostalgia, and if JA had a reason to bolt it it was probably a good one, All hail the Duke! Apr 2, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
NOTE: this route was originally established as a gear line and was recently retrobolted. Since the FA has stated his intention to restore the route to its orginal state, I've removed all sport/bolt references in the route description. The correct name Cinco de Mayo has also been restored. Dec 4, 2008
gus Fontenot
Alabama
 
gus Fontenot   Alabama
 
concur on above...can someone take that pic of JA off the intro page? makes me ill Dec 4, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Did this on gear in the mid 90s, I recall it being well protected and enjoyable climbing. Absolutely no reason to bolt this. 2/5 for the climbing, bomb rating for the unnecesassy retrobolting. Dec 3, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A bomb for style. Luckily, that can be remidied. Dec 2, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
The comments previously posted in this route description have been moved to the Southern States forum as a message thread.

JL Dec 1, 2008