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Routes in Holiday Block

Gravy Train T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney Approach T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinco de Mayo T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cruise This S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Tuesday T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Launchitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark's Menace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Dog Has Fleas S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Never Believe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oyster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rabies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandrewf T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Tales From the Hard Side S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
They Call Me Cruiser T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Dog T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,339 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on May 15, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Gravy Train starts in Alabama - climbing conglomerated flakes and pockets, but transports you to the Gunks - climbing great horizontals before finishing at a big horn.

Location

Located on the valley side of the Holiday Block...far left side when facing the formation...next to Oyster (sport climb)

Protection

Trad rack, thin gear, slings. No anchors...sling the horn.

Photos

Michael Dom
  5.10a
Michael Dom  
  5.10a
Definitely not 11a. It is a beginner's 5.10. Jan 18, 2016
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
  5.9
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
  5.9
This description lead me to have a little confusion about which route is which. The newest version of the Dixie Cragger seems to have them in the right place. Saxfiend's order of the routes are accurate, but there are some new anchors with rap rings (from left to right):

Gravy Train (5.10a) -- furthest left route. Anchors with rap rings to the right of the horn. Fun route and soft for a 10a. This is a distinctly different route than Oyster.

Oyster (5.10a) -- just right of Gravy Train. This is a sport route and has anchors with rap rings. The newest edition of the Dixie Cragger has this labeled correctly in the photo.

Walking the Dog (5.9) -- right of Oyster. Trad, anchors with rap rings.

Rabies (5.11a) -- right of Walking the Dog. sport with anchors. Nov 2, 2015
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
Someone has installed bolts and rings on the ledge to the right of the horn. Probably still best to use the horn as a toprope anchor (or at least a directional) as it keeps the rope running free. But getting down is now very convenient. May 31, 2015
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
nevermind wrote:This is actually Oyster.
Uh, no. This is actually Gravy Train. Re-read my earlier explanation.

JL Jan 8, 2015
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.10a/b
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.10a/b
This is actually Oyster. Sep 14, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Well...guess the "king" was wrong. Hmmm...image that. Aug 4, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
Chris Blanchard wrote:Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the difficulty for this route and Oyster switched. According to Johnny Arms (the king of Sandrock) - he told me Gravy Train is 11a and Oyster is 10a. It might be graded a little sandbagged, but words of the king stand. Also when I climbed this route back in April, there were anchors at the top (closed shuts).
Chris, the Cragger definitely has the routes mixed up, but you're confusing things even more. It sounds like the "words of the king" got lost in translation somehow.

The routes at the left end of the Holiday Block's south side are:

Gravy Train (5.10a) -- furthest left route. This is a trad lead and is by no stretch of the imagination a 5.11; really, it's a little soft for 10a. Also, the route has no anchors, so whatever you climbed in April was another route. The description in the Cragger for Gravy Train actually belongs with Oyster.
Oyster (5.10a) -- just right of Gravy Train. This is a sport route and does have anchors. As noted above, this route is mistakenly identified as Gravy Train in the Cragger.
Walking the Dog (5.9) -- right of Oyster. Another trad line, it also has anchors.
Rabies (5.11a) -- right of Walking the Dog. A tough sport route with anchors at the top. This is the one that the Dixie Cragger mistakenly labelled as Oyster.

Hopefully that will clear things up for you.

JL May 8, 2010
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
  5.11a
Chris Blanchard   Anacortes, WA
  5.11a
Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the difficulty for this route and Oyster switched. According to Johnny Arms (the king of Sandrock) - he told me Gravy Train is 11a and Oyster is 10a. It might be graded a little sandbagged, but words of the king stand.

Also when I climbed this route back in April, there were anchors at the top (closed shuts). May 8, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
This rivals Comfortably Numb as one of the best trad routes at Sand Rock. Plentiful protection and great interesting moves from top to bottom. My first 5.10 gear lead. Cowabunga! May 31, 2009