Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Holiday Block

Chimney Approach T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinco de Mayo T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cruise This S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fat Tuesday T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Gravy Train T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Launchitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark's Menace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Dog Has Fleas S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Never Believe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oyster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pump Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rabies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandrewf T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Tales From the Hard Side S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
They Call Me Cruiser T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Dog T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 1,338 total · 11/month
Shared By: Will S on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a fantastic steep and bouldery route with two distinct cruxes, one after the second bolt and one just below the top. Gym rats and boulderers will love this one. Sequence through the first couple bolts is important to minimize the number of moves and to be clipping off the right holds.

Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.

Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the west side of Holiday Block, right of center, between Never Believe and Tuesday's Gone.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Although originally done as a trad route with some pre-placed gear, this was unfortunately retrobolted in the mid 90s. 4 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Michael Dom
  5.11d
Michael Dom  
  5.11d
Difficult sidepull and bump to make that dyno. This is a very powerful route. Jan 18, 2016

More About Tales From the Hard Side

Printer-Friendly