Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,537 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the overhanging wall on insane jugs. As you round the bulge, holds get smaller. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the route trending right to finish in the chimney. We went up and vaguely to the left instead, because it looked cooler.

Kind of like My Dog Has Fleas, only steeper and trad!

Location

On the north side of Holiday Block. Starts on the same bulging, overhanging wall as My Dog Has Fleas. Walk around to the right from My Dog Has Fleas, to the steeper section of the wall -- a bit to the left of the chimney.

Protection

standard rack, build a gear anchor at the top

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
This is really quite a nice route with a challenging transition from the juggy overhanging section into the chimney. For a fun variation on toprope (or on lead, for that matter), start directly under the chimney instead of to the left and power your way up a nice crack system to the chimney. May 31, 2009
Michael Dom
  5.8+
Michael Dom  
  5.8+
You can sling a nice horn at the top for the anchors. Otherwise plan to do a walk off. You really only need a handful of nuts for this route as you can sling the horns on the way up. Jan 18, 2016
Has anyone considered adding some top-anchors to this route? Apparently there's no FA to ask. May 1, 2017
Russ Worley
Atlanta, GA
  5.8+
Russ Worley   Atlanta, GA
  5.8+
The route starts right of dog has fleas and trends right toward the water groove left of the massive chimney. Take the Chuck Parks way....es bueno. May 13, 2017