Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||Shannon Stegg - 1991|
|Page Views:||289 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Austin Howell on Oct 23, 2016|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
DescriptionThis route has some of the best 5.12 climbing in the park! cryptic to decipher, but delightful once you get moving!
Begin near the start of "Pigs in Zen." Move left on a jug rail, then fire straight up through long pulls on crisp edges and a two-finger pocket. Make a long throw over the roof from a small crimp (crux), then trend up and left on more moderate terrain passing a few rusted bolts to finish at a corroded anchor.
Build your own anchor with cams in the alcove below the bolts if you want to work the route on TR, for cleaning it is safest to walk over the top and fix your line from anchors on top of Holiday Block (near the finish for "Standard Route") and perform a single-rope rappel. Afterward it is relatively straightforward to scramble to the top to retrieve your fixed line. whatever you do, just don't trust the rusted hangers at the top of this line.
Protectionthere are two pieces that matter for the crux
about 15' up there is a horizontal slot which takes a Yellow (#2) C3, just above the roof there is a pod in a small seam that will take brass micros
if you use a #4 micro, there's a chance the wire won't quite fit in the seam, but if you use a #3 there's a chance it will pull through the bottom of the pod, but you could stack a couple of them in there for added security. placing the micros was harder than the move. using double ropes makes it less likely that you'll deck if you blow the crux and the micros
At the two finger pocket, that C3 is the only thing keeping you off the floor. I believe the brass micros are the only thing keeping you off the floor if you blew the roof-pull, it's a close call but I don't think the C3 would catch you before the ground does