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Routes in Diff'rent Strokes Buttress

Dana Plato Lives! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Diff'rent Strokes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A1-
Ornery Miss Garrett T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rule the World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whats You Talkin' Bout Willis? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 117 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 714 total, 6/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route starts on broken rock down low in the gulch. The climbing is pretty fun despite appearance on big jugs, but the juice is in the dihedral. Plug some small gear and step up into the crack. (You'll see a bolt line on the arete this is Rule The World) A couple of bolts and TCU's bring you up fun moves on nice rock. After the low angle wide-ish section look to your right up the open book, there is a fixed pin at the end. From this airy stance slab your way up chickenheads passing a bolt to the 2 ring anchor. Don't let rope drag make you as Ornery as the Drummond housekeeper.

Location

The start has 2 fixed pins and is about 10 feet to the right of Diff'rent Strokes.

Protection

A full rack w TCU's (2) .75 camalots are nice, Shoulder slings.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
She was ornery last Sunday - getting lowered, I dislodged a large block 8 feet off the ground that I had climbed over on the way up. Very fortunate there were no injuries as it almost got my partner! As for the route, I thought it was well worth doing. There are only 2 bolts in the corner and I was happy for the second one that I could clip mid-crux as there is a bit of a ledge fall potential there. Sep 12, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The start has a shiny bolt before the two pins. No full rack needed. A single set to 1.5" will be fine. Lots of unnecessary bolts. Sep 3, 2012
tenesmus  
 
This is a fun warmup and longer than you'd think Oct 15, 2008