5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British A1-
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'|
|Page Views:||806 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tyler Phillips on Oct 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1. The start is marked by a pin, broken climbing follows. Climb up past pin (long runner) towards the small mini-roofs, do not pass any placements. Climb up steep face passing 2 bolts and some fun jugs. From 2nd bolt climb up and slightly left into very cool left facing corner and pockets! Place a TCU in this section and continue up passing 2 more bolts, make a left-ward traverse to the right facing corner and beautiful rock. Climb up and left out of the corner on small shelf. Slot a big cam under the roof and paw your way up the lip, (a hard to find bolt right over the lip has been marked with green webbing) clip the bolt crank the crux to the bolted belay/rap. 5.9+ 120ft.
P2. From belay climb up and right going over dirty ground, you can stop and belay at the fixed pins or keep moving up to the big shelf and numerous natural belays.(this can be run as 1 pitch from the ground using 60/70m ropes.) 5.5 45+ ft.
P3. The Gary Colman Corner: Belay at fixed pin at the bottom of the corner, a hand cam can be used as additional pro for the belay (directly behind the dead trees). TCU's are $ on this pitch. The start is fingers to a tree, then some off-fingers.The top has several ways to do it, they are all fun. Climb passed the chain belay/rap and traverse over underneath the big roof, small gear can be found for a good ?belay? and stance. Short, Black, Surly 5.9 45 ft.
P4. From natural belay under the roof climb straight up to the corner. This section is The Gooch, as of now it is un-freed and requires a couple aid moves. Aid on bolt to the pin, from here free climbing is possible. Climb up the corner placing TCU's, clip a fixed pin, make a wild move(s) to the bolt and stance from there cruise to the top of the dihedral. At the top of the dihedral take the left hand option passing a bolt and climb through the wide section of the roof. From here the exposure is really nice; clip a few more fixed pins to the belay at the Philip Drummond Ledge. A beautiful corner, it has some of the coolest granite in Tanners. 5.9 A1 100 ft.
P5.(The Anniversary Pitch) From the Philip Drummond Ledge climb up and left onto the Black Streak. Clip several bolts and trend right towards the obvious flake. The finish has several options, straight up the wide flake, traverse out right (recommended) and climb very cool cracks and dikes, or go out left for some grassy, funky love. 5.11c
Descent: From the Philip Drummond ledge a 70m rope is necessary to get back to the chain at the top of The Gary Colman Corner, even then it's a stretch. From here make a short rap to the fixed pins, from pins go back to the top of the 1st pitch anchor (70M required to reach ground from here), or, if you have 2 ropes rap directly to the ground from the pins.