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Routes in Diff'rent Strokes Buttress

Dana Plato Lives! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Diff'rent Strokes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A1-
Ornery Miss Garrett T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rule the World S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whats You Talkin' Bout Willis? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Dallen Ward
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.

The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.

Location

Right of Mrs Garrett.

Protection

Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.

Photos

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11
Seriously good route. A must-do in this area. Sep 10, 2009
tenesmus  
 
The name is the last line of that stupid theme song from the TV series. A song Luke put in my head so I couldn't get it out. Oct 15, 2008