Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Clay Watson, Dallen Ward
Page Views: 873 total · 4/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


24 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.

The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.

Location Suggest change

Right of Mrs Garrett.

Protection Suggest change

Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.

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