Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: MJM, May 2005
Page Views: 2,453 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

Start up using the face on the right and holds on the detached, 8-foot pillar to the left to gain a good stance to clip the high first bolt. Follow more bolts making fun face moves on sharp rock. The apparent crux comes about half way up when moving up the face from a good ledge in a shallow dihedral. I tried not to use the right wall of the dihedral to "keep it real" but ended up putting a foot out there. Easier climbing leads to the anchors just above a small roof.

Location

This is the first route to the right of Shelfish starting slightly behind a small detached pillar.

Protection

9 bolts to two bolts with rap rings for the anchor.

Photos

Matt Strauser
Ft. Collins, CO
Matt Strauser   Ft. Collins, CO
I believe there are now more routes between Shelfish and Dillinger. Dec 13, 2010
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Some fun climbing on this one, although the holds at the top seem pretty fragile and you have a ledge below you. Feb 22, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
The BR & Brandon route depicted by MJM (those are my initials too) is named Knot Too Many Roaches. Feb 28, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Great early morning warm-up to avoid the crowds of Cactus! Everything was pretty solid from what I could tell, as well! Start from the spire on the left (which I think is the more fun way) or on the right! Nov 4, 2013
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
The first bolt is quite high. I followed this pitch and am not sure I'd want to lead up to that bolt on what seems somewhat loose rock in places. If a hold broke, you'd go a ways to the ground. (Yes, I realize that many sport climbers own stick clips, but I don't have one...). Apr 22, 2018