Pretty Boy Floyd [Suggest Change]
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 111 votes
Routes in The Bank
1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
5.11 Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Burnt Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Corner Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Harry S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Heretic S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Hostile Crankover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Large Marge S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
My Versailles Guy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Old But Not Dead S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
PiÃ±on Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Purple Reign S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Sky, Blue Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Soprano S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stair Master S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Starving Hippies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Storm Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Team Anorexia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R | |
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Tribal Boundary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Under The Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Unknown 8+ S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
White Dog S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Why Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
You Were Meant For Me S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Unsorted Routes: |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft |
FA: | MJM & RAMM, 10/05 |
Page Views: | 4,217 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | MJM on Dec 5, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description [Suggest Change]
Scramble up the low angle slab to begin.
Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance. Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet. Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.
Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance. Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet. Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.
Colorado Springs, CO
The bolts are a couple of feet to the left of the crack, which makes them harder to clip, unlike Crinoid Corner where they are much closer to the crack you are climbing.
The crux is the roof at the fifth bolt, which starts from a pretty large ledge, and the bolt easily clipped from the ledge (I'm 5'11). The bolt is too low above the roof - I climbed to where my waist was even with the bolt and hung on the rope...with rope stretch my feet touched the ledge. So, a fall from the above the bolt or at the awkward clip at the sixth bolt could be an ankle breaker.
Also, the anchors are placed a foot above a good stance for your feet for setting up the rappel or top rope. An extra foot of mediocre climbing is not worth a hanging stance....
I rate this PG-13 because of the fifth bolt and would not recommend this as a beginning leader route. Mar 15, 2012
CT
Golden, CO
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Reading, VT
A bolted crack is a strange thing to me. Although I understand the rationale aforementioned, it would certainly not be accepted practice in sport climbing venues in the east (e.g., Rumney). My Colorado native friend who brought us to Shelf said he saw a young woman lead this crack on all passive gear with style. This was my first visit to Shelf and I am surprised at how many crack lines I saw bolted. Sep 22, 2014
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Colorado