Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 10/05
Page Views: 4,307 total · 35/month
Shared By: MJM on Dec 5, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


117 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up the low angle slab to begin.

Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance. Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet. Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.

Location

At The Bank Rob, this is the second to last route on the right.

Protection & Vitals

9 clips to anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
Good beginner route with a lot of options available. Feb 22, 2011
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8- PG13
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8- PG13
The placement of bolts on this one is a bit curious.

The bolts are a couple of feet to the left of the crack, which makes them harder to clip, unlike Crinoid Corner where they are much closer to the crack you are climbing.

The crux is the roof at the fifth bolt, which starts from a pretty large ledge, and the bolt easily clipped from the ledge (I'm 5'11). The bolt is too low above the roof - I climbed to where my waist was even with the bolt and hung on the rope...with rope stretch my feet touched the ledge. So, a fall from the above the bolt or at the awkward clip at the sixth bolt could be an ankle breaker.

Also, the anchors are placed a foot above a good stance for your feet for setting up the rappel or top rope. An extra foot of mediocre climbing is not worth a hanging stance....

I rate this PG-13 because of the fifth bolt and would not recommend this as a beginning leader route. Mar 15, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Just curious, why would you bolt this crack when it looks like you could place gear in it the entire way? Feb 7, 2013
Robert Raithel
Golden, CO
Robert Raithel   Golden, CO
Seems to me that this is more of a common practice in sport climbing oriented climbing destinations. A lot of people aren't bringing trad racks to these crags just to climb a low-mid quality crack. I guess whoever bolted it just figured that it would be better to make this climb more accessible rather than leaving it alone. Probably would never see any action if it weren't for the bolts. Apr 1, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Wouldn't necessarily agree with the PG-13. Perhaps if you're an upcoming leader trying to build some confidence, yes, they might be a little spacy towards the top, but all have great stances to clip. And I do agree that the crux is the roof at the 5th bolt, it's a bit sneaky but there. Have fun! :) Nov 4, 2013
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
If you compare this to other 5.7s and 5.8s at The Bank this is harder and surely a harder lead for the newer leader.

A bolted crack is a strange thing to me. Although I understand the rationale aforementioned, it would certainly not be accepted practice in sport climbing venues in the east (e.g., Rumney). My Colorado native friend who brought us to Shelf said he saw a young woman lead this crack on all passive gear with style. This was my first visit to Shelf and I am surprised at how many crack lines I saw bolted. Sep 22, 2014
Wingman  
Perhaps we can get someone to put some chains hanging down from the anchor bolts. I'm 5'4" (and getting shorter!). It's a real struggle to reach and clean the anchors for rappel. I would be more than willing to put up the $$ for the material. Perhaps Santa will grant me my wish. :-} Oct 25, 2014
Sherpa Steve
Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.9-
Sherpa Steve   Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.9-
5.7? That's ridiculous. At LEAST 5.8+ or even a 5.9- because of the sustained crack near the top. May 8, 2015
Ben D.
Colorado
Ben D.   Colorado
This seemed to me to be a solid 5.7 (maybe "+") if leading on gear. If climbing it as a sport route, it is definitely harder than other 5.7s at Shelf (probably closer to 5.8/9-). I agree with others that, as a crack climb, this probably shouldn't have been bolted. That being said, you can climb this route on the left face for the majority of the climb and it goes at 5.9/10a (for the area–which I think the ratings here are soft). The exception is the roof, which you have to climb in the crack if you want to keep the grade relatively consistent (you can pull the roof on the face w/arete, but it goes at .10c/d). As with most of the routes at Shelf, there is a variety of ways to attack this problem. My girlfriend backed off this route on lead at the roof but then went on to onsight a 5.10 further up the crag. So go figure.... May 22, 2018