Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bob Robertson and Brandon Schrim, 2010
Page Views: 1,643 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Start below a big ramp and move up over easy holds. From the ramp, continue up to a decent ledge to clip the 4th bolt. Getting from here to the next bolt is the crux - some delicate moves on small, sloping holds with very little for the feet. Once at the 5th bolt, the holds are big and it’s a much easier cruise to the anchor, although getting into position for the anchor is a little tricky. The crux can be avoided by moving left into the corner and back to the right to clip that 5th bolt. This makes the climb about 5.8. Either way this is a fun route. Rappel to descend.

Location

This climb is on the panel just to the left of the arête on the left side of Pretty Boy Floyd.

Protection

6 bolts, cold shut anchor.

Photos

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10a
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10a
Both coldshuts at the top were spinners. If someone's got a wrench with them, they could use some tightening. Feb 13, 2011
slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
Climbing this straight on felt like 5.8, although clipping the 5th bolt might be tough if you are short. The 2nd bolt is placed such that no matter what length of draw you hang on it, the draw ends up laying on a ledge. The upper part of the route is really nice. Feb 22, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10b
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10b
Use a double length runner on clip 4. Then it's really just a couple of thin 5.10- moves to clip 5, and then it is back down to easier to finish. Feb 28, 2011
Tightened the anchor bolts today. However, not keen on the idea of 1/2" shuts on 3/8" studs. Will probably work loose again before long. Oct 29, 2012
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
So Bob Robertson told me he named this after Tracy Roach, who climbed it the day he finished bolting it. Tracy's partner started pulling the rope, which had a knot in the end and necessitated leading the route again to fix the problem. Hence the name, Knot Too Many Roaches. :-D Sep 22, 2016
Good story, but it was my friend Sheila Roach, not Tracy Roach. Mar 25, 2018
I am embarrassed to say it was me that left the knot in the rope. I don’t do that any more. Mar 25, 2018