Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Reggie and Michael Slavens
Page Views: 1,445 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Description

In Bob D’Antonio’s new guidebook for Shelf, this climb is listed as New Corner. Start on the rough dark brown rock and work your way up to a double crack system. At this point, the wall goes a little negative, but the feet are good and there are great jams and locks to supplement the face holds. Finish on a large flat ledge to the right of the crack system, where the right crack ends. I list this route here as .10a since that is the rating in Bob’s guide. I felt the climb is easier than Dillinger; I’d say 5.9. Rappel to descend.

Location

New Comer is in the shallow corner between Shelfish and Dillinger.

Protection

8 bolts, bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

 
slim    
 
Fun route with a variety of techniques. It feels surprisingly steep at the top. Feb 22, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Super fun! It's really only 10 when you pull over the mini roof into the shallow chimney. The rest is very fun and all different! Nov 4, 2013
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
This is a great climb and worth the effort. It looks a lot more intimidating than it really is given the slight overhang and length between bolts. All the climbing between the bolts is easy, and the crux is very well-protected. I have a big reach, so it felt soft for 10a, but I can see it if you have less of an ape index. Get on it! Jan 15, 2018