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Routes in Minions of Chaos Area

And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
Page Views: 506 total, 5/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Start directly behind the “sun deck” boulder. Climb up clipping a bolt, hand sized cams bring you through the roof and to a really nice slab, clip some bolts to a 2 bolt/chain anchor. 5.8-

P2. From anchor climb slightly down, then up and right, pass a bolt to the steep section. Crank up and over steep section using sweet jugs of love, from 1st mini roof climb up clipping a bolt into a small overhanging dihedral. Move left onto the foot ledge at the top of the dihedral after clipping the bolt, this brings you to the belay on the 2nd pitch of Minions of Chaos. 5.8

P3. Traverse back the way you came from the anchor, when you get back to the bolt at your feet, climb up and right to a ramp system to a “step”. From the “step” aim for the big pine tree there is 4 bolts on this pitch. 5.8

Location

Behind the "Sun Deck" boulder. It's the right hand start (see )

Protection

QD's a rack up to #3 camalot, shoulder slings

Photos

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How did this route get it's name?
Being the ever prepared duo that we are, both TP and I neglected to bring a hammer the day this line was started. Not ones to turn around we searched till we found an appropriately shaped rock and work began. Being on the lead with a chunk of rock for a hammer and a hand drill can make a 5.8 pretty exciting. It made us feel like stone age climbers.
Besides Capt. Caveman was loved by the women.Nevermind,I think the usefulness of this analogy is over.
Stupid story ,but true. Oct 12, 2008