Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
Page Views: 665 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Start directly behind the “sun deck” boulder. Climb up clipping a bolt, hand sized cams bring you through the roof and to a really nice slab, clip some bolts to a 2 bolt/chain anchor. 5.8-

P2. From anchor climb slightly down, then up and right, pass a bolt to the steep section. Crank up and over steep section using sweet jugs of love, from 1st mini roof climb up clipping a bolt into a small overhanging dihedral. Move left onto the foot ledge at the top of the dihedral after clipping the bolt, this brings you to the belay on the 2nd pitch of Minions of Chaos. 5.8

P3. Traverse back the way you came from the anchor, when you get back to the bolt at your feet, climb up and right to a ramp system to a “step”. From the “step” aim for the big pine tree there is 4 bolts on this pitch. 5.8

Location

Behind the "Sun Deck" boulder. It's the right hand start (see
Topo for Minions Crag )

Protection

QD's a rack up to #3 camalot, shoulder slings

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