Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Casa Bonita
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Minions of Chaos Area
|
|
And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Casa Bonita T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Towelie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57993, -111.70289 |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips & Henry Crompton P1 and P2 July 2023/ Kurt Howes and Tyler Phillips P3 and P4 August 2023 |
| Page Views: | 397 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Sep 5, 2023 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Cartman Says
Casa Bonita is the Disneyland of Mexican Restaurants, and is also a great South Park Episode.
P1- Mantle up dirt shelves to reach the 1st bolt at about 20ft. A micro cam can protect the opening moves. Follow big fat bolts passing a sub anchor, up dirt shelves and the occasional slabbing that leads to the big pine tree marking the Philip and Terrance Terrace. You probably won't like this pitch. (Take the path of least resistance) 5.6 dirty 180ft
P2- Crimp and Pimp up the stellar headwall clipping fat bolts on your way to Food, Family and Fun (Casa Bonita Mission Statement) 5.11a 70ft. 3 star pitch
P3- Step right into the corner secure a hand sized cam. Roll in dirt all the way to the General Disarray Ledge.. You probably wont like this pitch. 5.3 Dirt 120ft
P4- Step up under the tree off the ledge. Pumpy climbing with gear placements lead you to the steep bolt line. Figure out the best way to use that "jug" and throw / reach / levitate to the flat edge up and left. From here, wild, steep pumpy climbing leads one to the last 10 feet of the Butters crack, stay right and out of the crack for maximum pump and enjoyment. Ends at the communal anchor. 5.11c 70ft. 3/4 star pitch
Getting Down
From the top of P4 follow the same descent as Minions of Chaos.
From top of P2 and lower a 60M gets you down. The sub anchor on P1 must be used with a 60 or 70m.
1 Comment