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Minions of Chaos Area Rock Climbing

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Routes in Minions of Chaos Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Casa Bonita T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Towelie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Elevation:	7,500 ft	2,286 m
GPS:	40.57993, -111.70289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,169 total · 62/month
Shared By:	Tyler Phillips on Oct 12, 2008
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This wall faces East, the upper pitches are the first to see light in the gulch. The is the Bedrock area and holds 3 pitches for cragging out of the gulch off the sun deck boulder (Now covered in debris and blocks)

The multipitch routes that start here have good ledges for belaying. Route finding seems to be the hardest on the 3rd pitches of Minions of Chaos and Capitan Caveman, read the route descriptions well.

The rock is really good on some pitches while others it suffers a bit of "adventure layer" so to speak. The snowpack leaves a nice dirt/pine needle/choss line on the rock itself behind the sun deck boulder and here and there on the slab, so beware of a grenades looming early season. Bring a helmet.

Getting There

Look for the buttress across from the Skinny Puppy Wall. It has a short slab with a small roof splitting it at the bottom.

At the top of the Buttress lies a splitter, this is the Butters Pitch, pitch 4 on the Minions of Chaos.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Minions of Chaos Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 195 ● Minions of Chaos Trad 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Towelie Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 12 ● And Son Trad