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Routes in Minions of Chaos Area

And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 05'& 06'
Page Views: 4,276 total · 35/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Start on the far left of the sun deck boulder, climb up to roof clipping a bolt, then straight up the slab passing more bolts. Go passed chain anchor to belay at 2 bolts w/ no chain below beautiful featured face. 5.7

P2. Start crimping and pimping up one hell of a fine face to 2 bolt anchor/rap. 5.10+

P3. From the anchor climb up and right around the bush, angle left passing cool features and a pin into the “lighting bolt crack”, pull small roof and scramble up dirt passing a few more technical moves until a sweet ledge (General Disarray belay ledge) and fixed pin is found down and climbers right from the Butters pitch under the tree. 5.8

P4. From nice ledge climb up into obvious hand/finger crack. Don’t forget to look around for all the sweet features for hands and feet. Hang on through 2 very steep “pods”, crank one last move and clip the anchors. ?Butters Pitch? 5.10 **** Bring lots of thin hand sizes

Location

Find the large boulder at the head of the gulch w/ a nice slab in back of it and a flat top to belay. About 100 yards up from Witches and Divas. (see
Topo for Minions Crag )

Descent: Rap from the Butters pitch back down towards big pine on Captain Caveman, from big pine rap back to the top of the 2nd pitch of the Minions Of Chaos. From 2nd pitch of Minions rap back to the top of the slab routes. We used a 70m rope.

Protection

QD's. A full rack up to #4 camalot. Doubles on #1 & .75 camalot and finger sized TCU's is nice. Shoulder slings. Helmet.
.
tenesmus  
 
Is there another overhanging 5.10 handcrack around slc? This one is pretty cool. Don't forget to do the .11a crack to the right if you're up there. Oct 10, 2008
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Finally this route got posted so I can spray how damned good it is. I've done it twice and believe it too be one of the best multi-pitch routes in LCC. Move for move the sport pitch and last pitch handcrack are ultra-classic! DO IT! Oct 11, 2008
Working on this route was a great time. When we first arrived at the base of the Butter's pitch we were super stoked to find it was not the wide monster it appeared from afar. Choked with deadly chockstones it took some sweat and fear to rid the crack of these.
At one point when a particularly large rock rolled out of the crack and into my lap I clinched up as if Butter's minions had started a back door attack.
Cool moves on a hand friendly crack that you do not have to jam your feet into.
You will surely hate it! Oct 12, 2008
bsmoot  
This is a great route. The second pitch is one of the best face pitches I've done on the granite. It's like a 5.10 version of All Chalk and No Action, but longer. The steep 4th pitch has lots varied jamming...great way to finish! Aug 22, 2009
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
What a great climb! Just wish it didn't have that 3rd pitch though. The 2nd and 4th pitches are what you came for and are well worth doing.. I can't wait to come back and climb more in the area. The granite on the butters pitch felt and climbed just like Fergy stone. The FA's have done a wonderful job working this whole area. Sep 28, 2009
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
 
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
 
Super Great route!! Did this today with my standard Wasatch rack up to a 3.5 friend no problem. I never felt I needed a #4 Camalot. Oh, and the P4 crack gobbles up the stoppers for sure!! Jul 18, 2010
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10c
Nice route. Third pitch ist choss. Might be the minions of "choss" pitch, I didn't come up with the name, so credit goes to him. Led all four pitches in a group of three. Mellow and decent warm up first pitch. Second pitch is the business and also the best. I'm not much for an LCC sport climber, but who is?, but this pitch is pretty enjoyable with bolts abound and good feet on good crimps. 3rd "bitch" was like fighting with a soon to be ex girlfriend; dirty, angry, but easy as shit. 4th pitch is a slightly overhanging handcrack/fingercrack/offwidth/face climb. Single rack to 4 was used. I enjoyed the pitch, not as much as the sport pitch, but it was worth the choss.

3 stars for all the pitches except the red headed step child pitch. It's a bomb pitch but necessary. Hence 2 stars... No offense to the FA party, but I gotta be honest.

Climbed with two 60m. Didn't want to get rope stuck so leap frogged rappels on descent. 60 works for all raps. (edit) The first rap from the top takes you to a ledge BELOW the tree with all the slings on it to a chain anchor - this ledge is below the ledge you belay from for the last pitch.

Note: we witnessed massive rockfall on the west facing side of the canyon that day. If we had been in the gully at the time, we would have been in the fall zone. Helmets suggested.

Lu Lu Lu I got some apples, Lu lu Lu you got some too. Jun 8, 2012
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
P2&P4 r $$ Aug 30, 2013
Ryan Arnold
  5.10d
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10d
Surprised by all the hate for pitch 3, and the lack of stars in general. Maybe my expectations were really low but I found pitch 3 to be 40 feet of fun 5.7 followed by 40 feet of easy scrambling, not unlike the middle section of pentapitch. Who cares? That final pitch will give you a 4-star feeling. What a position! Steep and intimidating, but great stances and great pro. I brought doubles of camalots 0.5-2.0 with an extra 1.0, plus singles 3.0 and 3.5, used them all on the last pitch. Second pitch was the crux but bolts were bomber and well-placed. Mellow, scenic approach. You'll love it. Jun 2, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
#4 is definitely not needed. A single rack to #3, doubles in #1 and #2 and some nuts will let you sew up the fourth pitch. Aug 2, 2015
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
60 m cord will get you off this. There are rap anchors about 20 feet below the slung pine at the base of the last pitch. They are pretty well hidden and if you don't climb past them on the third pitch you wouldn't know they're there. Sep 24, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.10c
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.10c
Classic multipitch, great way to beat the heat in the summer! Cant think of many bolted 5.10's that are as much fun as P2 and P4 is worthy of LCC dirtbag fame. Certainly worth the dumpy 3rd pitch, which I would equate to the 3rd and 4th pitches of Pentapitch if it had awkward slab moves protected with bolts and plenty of choss to kick down on your belayer to follow. However if that's what it takes to get to P4 so be it! I don't think a # 4 is a good recommendation, I couldn't find many spots that seemed to be good for it. maybe double up on the #3 if you're worried about it, but Marmars gear suggestions were pretty spot on. Jul 13, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10d
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10d
A sweet line. Pitches 2 and 4 are awesome. Pitch 3 wasn't THAT bad...

Pitch 2 felt a lot like the cryptic edge climbing found in BCC. Pitch 4 was like a granite version of Goodro's Wall. Protects well the whole way. Aug 30, 2016
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Worry not, pitch 3 is now clean enough you won't need to get your grubby little fingers dirty. Jun 19, 2017
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
butters pitch is legit Jun 25, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
P1 - 6 bolts, bolted anchors. 5.6

P2 - 9 bolts total, bolted anchors. Pumpy and fun! 10c

P3 - 2 bolts, some gear. Total chossfest. Make an anchor at the tree right below the overhanging crack. 5.7 choss.

P4 - Double rack .5-3 is perfect in my opinion. Optional single .4 and #4, but not needed. 10c

--

Single 70m gets you down from the top.

Great route!! P2 and P4 are just stellar! I'd rate both pitches at 10c. Aug 6, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
I don't think you know what a "total chossfest" is. Aug 6, 2017
WillK  
Finally did this. The 3rd pitch did not seem very chossy and only a tiny bit dirty. Maybe a lot has changed on this pitch over time, but I definitely don't understand all the fuss. So now there's nothing left to detract from this amazing route.

We didn't find the correct rap anchors for the 2nd rap so we just used the slings on the tree at the ledge at the end of 3rd pitch. With a 70m rope you can reach the 2nd pitch anchors. If you brought a 60m, make sure you find the anchors in the descent beta above. Aug 9, 2017
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
Watch for the rope eating flake around bolt #4 of p2. It got ours and the party behind us also. Jul 8, 2018
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Awesome route. Pitches 2 and 4 are all time wasatch classic. Didn't think that pitch 3 was that bad at all, had some interesting climbing. Pitch 1 is an approach pitch. Amazing views, solitude, Golden Eagles soaring overhead, this was an awesome fall morning climb. Sep 22, 2018
Thomas Martin
Salt Lake City, Utah
Thomas Martin   Salt Lake City, Utah
Heads up! My partner, who will remain anonymous, broke the clipping jug on the second pitch of this climb yesterday. Rapping down the route I checked out the hold. It is still there but only half as wide, so potentially harder to match on. The climb might be more difficult due to this, sorry for the inconvenience. Oct 24, 2018

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