Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 05'& 06'
Page Views: 4,942 total · 36/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Start on the far left of the sun deck boulder, climb up to roof clipping a bolt, then straight up the slab passing more bolts. Go passed chain anchor to belay at 2 bolts w/ no chain below beautiful featured face. 5.7

P2. Start crimping and pimping up one hell of a fine face to 2 bolt anchor/rap. 5.10+

P3. From the anchor climb up and right around the bush, angle left passing cool features and a pin into the “lighting bolt crack”, pull small roof and scramble up dirt passing a few more technical moves until a sweet ledge (General Disarray belay ledge) and fixed pin is found down and climbers right from the Butters pitch under the tree. 5.8

P4. From nice ledge climb up into obvious hand/finger crack. Don’t forget to look around for all the sweet features for hands and feet. Hang on through 2 very steep “pods”, crank one last move and clip the anchors. ?Butters Pitch? 5.10 **** Bring lots of thin hand sizes

Location

Find the large boulder at the head of the gulch w/ a nice slab in back of it and a flat top to belay. About 100 yards up from Witches and Divas. (see
Topo for Minions Crag )

Descent: Rap from the Butters pitch back down towards big pine on Captain Caveman, from big pine rap back to the top of the 2nd pitch of the Minions Of Chaos. From 2nd pitch of Minions rap back to the top of the slab routes. We used a 70m rope.

Protection

QD's. A full rack up to #4 camalot. Doubles on #1 & .75 camalot and finger sized TCU's is nice. Shoulder slings. Helmet.
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Photos