Minions of Chaos
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 160 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 05'& 06'|
|Page Views:||8,032 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Tyler Phillips on Oct 10, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1. Start on the far left of the sun deck boulder, climb up to roof clipping a bolt, then straight up the slab passing more bolts. Go passed chain anchor to belay at 2 bolts w/ no chain below beautiful featured face. 5.7
P2. Start crimping up one hell of a fine face to 2 bolt anchor/rap. 5.10+
P3. From the anchor climb up and right around the bush, angle left passing cool features and a pin into the lighting bolt crack, pull small roof and scramble up dirt passing a few more technical moves until a sweet ledge (General Disarray belay ledge) and fixed pin is found down and climbers right from the Butters pitch under the tree. 5.8
P4. From nice ledge climb up into obvious hand/finger crack. Dont forget to look around for all the sweet features for hands and feet. Hang on through 2 very steep pods, crank one last move and clip the anchors. ?Butters Pitch? 5.10 **** Bring lots of thin hand sizes
Descent: Rap from the Butters pitch back down towards big pine on Captain Caveman, from big pine rap back to the top of the 2nd pitch of the Minions Of Chaos. From 2nd pitch of Minions rap back to the top of the slab routes. We used a 70m rope.