Type: Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,037 total · 57/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Sep 27, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

75 Opinions

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A classic fun climb, very popular, consequently a conga line normally forms on weekends. P1 is the crux and climbs either the narrow chimney on the right, or the more exposed face on the left depending on conditions (amount of ice and water flow). Beware of open ice above P1 with rushing water below. P2 is very easy and many choose to simulclimb this pitch. P3 narrows and follows the line of moderate ice to a large topout. Parts of P3 can be a thin curtain early in the season. There is an easy walkoff on the left that follows the hiking trail back down and is much quicker and easier than trying to rappell.


Right off Rt 73 at the bottom of the steep hill as you head north from Chapel Pond. Park at the trailhead for Giant Mountain on the right side of 73 and make the short walk to the base of the falls.


Nothing special to note.
Auto-X Fil
NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Auto-X Fil   NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Extremely fun. P2 is often a snow slog, P1 and P3 are both challenging in different ways.

Be careful of thin ice at any time of year. If you've never climbed an active waterfall this might not be a good one to start on unless you have good, recent beta that it's solid. May 25, 2011
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
Excellent First and Third Pitches, 2nd you don't really need ropes for depending on the conditions. One of my favorite Ice Climbs in the ADK's. Apr 12, 2012
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
Sam Fox   Burlington, VT
Good, but not what I'd call a "classic". Apr 22, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I think its "history factor" also adds into its designation as a "classic".

Finally, and no one's mentioned this in COMMENTs: In my opinion, the last 30 ft or so of the last pitch has gotten more difficult (more "technical") after Hurricane Irene, while the lower section of the last pitch has gotten easier. Jul 8, 2016