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Roaring Brook Falls

WI3+, Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 82 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > Giant Mountain

Description

A classic fun climb, very popular, consequently a conga line normally forms on weekends. P1 is the crux and climbs either the narrow chimney on the right, or the more exposed face on the left depending on conditions (amount of ice and water flow). Beware of open ice above P1 with rushing water below. P2 is very easy and many choose to simulclimb this pitch. P3 narrows and follows the line of moderate ice to a large topout. Parts of P3 can be a thin curtain early in the season. There is an easy walkoff on the left that follows the hiking trail back down and is much quicker and easier than trying to rappell.

Location

Right off Rt 73 at the bottom of the steep hill as you head north from Chapel Pond. Park at the trailhead for Giant Mountain on the right side of 73 and make the short walk to the base of the falls.

Protection

Nothing special to note.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I know it's a "butt-shot", but this was my first lead ever!!!!
[Hide Photo] I know it's a "butt-shot", but this was my first lead ever!!!!
Nick climbing the 1st pitch of the climb, near the top of the bottom half of the falls
[Hide Photo] Nick climbing the 1st pitch of the climb, near the top of the bottom half of the falls
Looking up from under the 1st pitch. 2/6/17
[Hide Photo] Looking up from under the 1st pitch. 2/6/17
This was taken a few days (12/16/17) after the first ascent of the season. The ice was extremely fragile with water still running along the surface of the ice in places.
[Hide Photo] This was taken a few days (12/16/17) after the first ascent of the season. The ice was extremely fragile with water still running along the surface of the ice in places.
Having fun on Roaring Brook
[Hide Photo] Having fun on Roaring Brook
Sebi Cron seconding at the crux of P3.  Ice was sketchy to say the least.
[Hide Photo] Sebi Cron seconding at the crux of P3. Ice was sketchy to say the least.
heading up p1 of RBF in not-so-great conditions
[Hide Photo] heading up p1 of RBF in not-so-great conditions
Looking up pitch 1 in thin conditions, Dec 31, 2014
[Hide Photo] Looking up pitch 1 in thin conditions, Dec 31, 2014
Roaring Brook Falls from the overlook on highway 73.
[Hide Photo] Roaring Brook Falls from the overlook on highway 73.
Preparing to ascend the last pitch. Run from the halfway pool, this is a 70m rope stretcher.
[Hide Photo] Preparing to ascend the last pitch. Run from the halfway pool, this is a 70m rope stretcher.
Seconding the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Seconding the first pitch.
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

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NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
[Hide Comment] Extremely fun. P2 is often a snow slog, P1 and P3 are both challenging in different ways.

Be careful of thin ice at any time of year. If you've never climbed an active waterfall this might not be a good one to start on unless you have good, recent beta that it's solid. May 25, 2011
Matt Baer
Keene, NY
  WI3+
[Hide Comment] Excellent First and Third Pitches, 2nd you don't really need ropes for depending on the conditions. One of my favorite Ice Climbs in the ADK's. Apr 12, 2012
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
 
[Hide Comment] Good, but not what I'd call a "classic". Apr 22, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] I think its "history factor" also adds into its designation as a "classic".

Finally, and no one's mentioned this in COMMENTs: In my opinion, the last 30 ft or so of the last pitch has gotten more difficult (more "technical") after Hurricane Irene, while the lower section of the last pitch has gotten easier. Jul 8, 2016