Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Walt's Wall

5.7 Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boulder Exit 9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edward's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Foolishness T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Slide T,S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Friday's Follies aka Water Streak T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gill Seam, The V3 6A
Heroes Become Weak V3 6A
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky V8 7B
Jacquot's Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake's Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mary V7+ 7A+
Ripmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satterfield's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisca Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tourist Trap T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Walt's Wall T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Weak Become Heroes V10 7C+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ray Jacquot, Gary Wilson, Nancy Greig, 1971
Page Views: 927 total, 8/month
Shared By: Gary Schmidt on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route can be done as a variation for the 3rd pitch of the popular Walt's Wall Route. The guidebook rates it at 5.5, but I have done 5.8 sport routes that felt very similar to this one, so don't count on a walk up. (This is Vedauwoo!). However, it is fun and the rock is as good as it gets.

Location

This route is located about 20 feet left of the second anchor on Walt's Wall Route. Make an exposed, unprotected traverse over to a spot below the obvious bolt and start climbing. Clip the second bolt and tip toe carefully up the remaining unprotected slab (no pro options). Descend as per Walt's Wall Route.

Protection

There are only two bolts on the entire pitch with a long run out at the end. Granted it gets easier the further you get up, but a slip would be quite nasty. Also if you traverse right to the bolt anchor at the top of the traditional Walt's Wall finish you will be exposing your second (who at this level could be maybe inexperienced) to some scary traversing. Better to set a trad anchor at the top in the big crack and then traverse over the the rappel anchor.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.6 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6 PG13
Not all that hard, but don't fall leading it. After the first clip, your heart rate will settle down. Oh, yeah, this is NOT a "sport" climb. Mar 8, 2011