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Routes in Walt's Wall

5.7 Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boulder Exit 9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edward's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Foolishness T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Slide T,S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Friday's Follies aka Water Streak T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gill Seam, The V3 6A
Heroes Become Weak V3 6A
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky V8 7B
Jacquot's Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake's Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mary V7+ 7A+
Ripmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satterfield's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisca Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tourist Trap T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Walt's Wall T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Weak Become Heroes V10 7C+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Jeb Schenk, 1972
Page Views: 846 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Aug 30, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Beginning at the chain anchor on the first Walt's Wall belay ledge, traverse right and then diagonally upward to the nearest line of 3 widely spaced bolts. The bolt line is followed over very slick and water polished rock, very conservatively rated at "5.9+," but is realistically more like 5.10a/b. The short route may be extended a few more feet by veering slightly right to a fourth bolt (Kopischka finish) and reaching the belay ledge. The Kopischka finish is probably 5.10b, although Layne rated it as 5.10a immediately after the first ascent of the variation. Rappel from the bolt anchor, or continue to the top of Walt's Wall and use the walk-off.

Location

The route begins at the chain anchor atop the first pitch of the standard Walt's Wall route.

Descend from ledge on which the route terminates by rappel using the Walt's Wall rappel route.

Protection

Four quickdraws are needed if the Kopischka finish is selected, in addition to a very light rack to protect the opening traverse moves.

Photos

I think Rodger's rating is accurate. I'm 6'5", and the reach was long but ok. The key were the thin moves on the slab getting onto the little nub. All original bolts were done in accepted style of on-lead, which was interesting because the winds can get gusty at times while balancing...hence my original name; Friday Follies. We actually filmed the first asc. What a laugh! Apr 19, 2017
The difficulty rating of this climb varies with the stature of the leader; for anyone short, the final moves are pretty reachy and would be 5.10a; but for taller climbers, the 5.9+ rating is accurate.

P.S. My wife was only 5' tall, and she really had to make an extra, very difficult move. Jul 14, 2015
Ross Philip
Boulder, Colorado
Ross Philip   Boulder, Colorado
This climb is called "Friday's Follies 5.9+" in "The Voo" guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn. Sep 18, 2013
I'm adding this comment to clarify what I viewed as a confused situation with "In the Out Door," and "formerly Water Streak II." Above, I've described the original Water Streak route as it was described to me back in the early 1970s by Jeb Schenk. I finally got around to doing the route twice when I again visited Laramie in the mid 1980s, by which time it was an accepted route. My wife led the route in July, 1986, and later that day, Layne Kopischka was up drilling the 4th bolt for the "Kopischka Finish." He described it to me as 5.10a at that time, but almost everyone else seems to think 10b is more accurate. I hope this clarifies the situation? Aug 30, 2012

More About Friday's Follies aka Water Streak

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