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Routes in Walt's Wall

5.7 Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boulder Exit 9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edward's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Foolishness T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Slide T,S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Friday's Follies aka Water Streak T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gill Seam, The V3 6A
Heroes Become Weak V3 6A
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky V8 7B
Jacquot's Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake's Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mary V7+ 7A+
Ripmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satterfield's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisca Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tourist Trap T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Walt's Wall T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Weak Become Heroes V10 7C+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Not me
Page Views: 3,095 total, 18/month
Shared By: Chad Bowman on Oct 14, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

From Walt's Wall Route (p1), head left or west about 20-30 feet over a rock to a small area to throw packs down (like a small room.) This route is right between Ed's Crack and the Mantle Route. You can either go straight up from the left side of the "room" or you can do the right alternate start. There's a flake if you go right, but angle up to the left through a couple of bolts. Belay at the beginning of pitch 2 of Walt's Wall. A TR can be set by leading Walt's pitch one and walking over on a small ledge.

Protection

There are a couple (2 or 3) bolts, so bring a couple of draws. Then bring some medium to large nuts for the belay.

Location

Per Eric Goltz: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo! Jun 9, 2013
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
5.8
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.8
You will most likely want to protect the beginning flake section with trad gear. A yellow Alien worked great. Fun climbing from then on and for those of us who would rather take our chances on slab friction Vedauwoo 5.8 then a Vedauwoo 5.7 awkward crack, this is the way to avoid the first section of Edward's.

There are two bolts after which the climbing is run out to the belay but a lot easier. Suggest a couple of smaller size cams and tri cams for the belay. If you wish to descend from here do the easy but exposed (can be belayed and protected if you like) traverse east across the ledge to the first bolt belay on the Walt's wall route and rappel back down. Aug 30, 2008
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Confusing route description: the route actually starts just a few yards climber's RIGHT from Ed's Crack, on a sort of arete w/ a protectable flake. From atop this pitch you can easily finish Ed's Crack. Jul 14, 2008
Chad Bowman  
 
I apologize, the flake is on the left side, not the right. Jul 26, 2004
Chad Bowman  
 
If you don't use the boulder behind you on the right variation, it feels like 10a (and it's a lot of fun!) Jun 25, 2004