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In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II)

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes

Routes in Walt's Wall

5.7 Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boulder Exit 9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edward's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Foolishness T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Slide T,S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Friday's Follies aka Water Streak T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gill Seam, The V3 6A
Heroes Become Weak V3 6A
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky V8 7B
Jacquot's Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jake's Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mary V7+ 7A+
Ripmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satterfield's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisca Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tourist Trap T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Walt's Wall T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Weak Become Heroes V10 7C+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: William LaRue & Zac Zachary, 2002
Page Views: 2,321 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Aug 18, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

There are actually two lines of bolts on the right side of Walt's Wall - one goes pretty much directly up the water streak and one is just left of it. These two lines seemed pretty forced (i.e. squeezed-in), but the one directly up the water streak seemed nicer. At the top, I continued to stay right on what I assume is the "Kopischka Finish."

Climb up a nice flake system and then into the Walt's Wall dihedral before finally stepping left onto the face. Fairly sustained climbing wanders upwards to a bolted anchor. One 60m rap gets you down.

Protection

4 bolts or so, a small cam or two to protect the opening and the finish move.

Photos

Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
Something here needs "official" clarification by an administrator! When I originally climbed what I knew as Water Streak, not Water Streak II, it was an "old school" 5.9+ and the Kopischka finish at "old school" 5.10a. These days, after many ascents wearing on the holds, the 5.10a/b rating would seem to be accurate for Water Streak. Aug 27, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
This is making a lot more sense. As the route poster states, these lines seem "forced", but the older and traditional Water Streak II has been there for a long time. The Kopischka finish was in my mind, a very small superiorgation on the original line; what...10-15 feet of climbing? Do we need another "route description" here? May 29, 2011
Chris Cox
Logan, UT
Chris Cox   Logan, UT
Ok, to clarify: As far as I can tell this route is NOT formerly known as Water Streak II. A Kopischka guide from 1992 labels the route climber's LEFT of this route as "Water Streak". The Kelman guide labels the climb left of this route "Water Streak II". Zach's new guide labels the climb left of this route as "Friday's Follys". This route is correctly shown in both the Kelman and new guide but still continues to get the name botched.... Apr 29, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
Now I'm confused? I climbed the route known as Water Streak II on 7/20/1986, the same day that we watched Layne Kopischka drill the final bolt on what became the Kopischka Finish, and then he completed the climb. He bolted it on the lead. I first climbed the "old" Water Streak route BITD. So...what gives here? Apr 6, 2011
Chris Cox
Logan, UT
Chris Cox   Logan, UT
Hey William - long no see, I will have to send you an email to see what you have been up to....

More details on the route: So the Zac referred to is actually Zac Orenczak. Zac's guide "Fat Crack Country" listed this climb as "In the Out Door". However, I ran into Zac a while back (I am living in Wyoming now), and he is planning on updating the name to the correct "In Through the Out Door" in his new guide.

I have yet to re-lead the route (not as bold as I used to be), but on top rope it doesn't feel much more run-out then the nearby routes.... I think that is what we were going for when we bolted it.

Chris Mar 27, 2011
Around July 2002, I, William LaRue, did the first ascent of what is being called Water Streak II. I bolted on lead, 3 bolts immediately right of the water streak, with a hand drill. Chris Cox, also of Albuquerque NM, belayed while Zac Zachary of Laramie filmed with a camcorder. Prior to doing the ascent we asked around to make sure it wouldn't violate the local ethic. Mark Jenkins gave the go ahead. Mark and I then climbed it together a day or so after the first ascent.

The way we envisioned the route was to start directly below the water streak and run it out to the first bolt. This felt pretty sketchy, so I ended up veering right and placing a trad anchor in Satterfield's Crack at a constriction about 35 or 40 feet off the deck. That was high enough that there was still a feeling of groundfall potential while drilling the first bolt, but it looked OK to Chris on belay. The stance at the third bolt was difficult to hold, so I placed a hook with an etrier for the right foot. While drilling the 3rd bolt, a couple climbers from Ft. Collins came by and yelled at us for adding a climb to an already crowed rappel line. That inspired the name we gave it of "In Through The Out Door" with reference to Led Zeppelin. After drilling the 3rd bolt, I lowered and reclimbed the route. Zach and I debated how to rate it. Zach preferred 9+, but I felt like since the first clip was dangerously high with a 5.9ish move to reach the clip that it would 10a would be a better rating. I'm glad to see that the consensus has been to rate it 10a.

One thing I regret about the climb is that if I had placed the third bolt to the left of the water streak then it would have been possible to clip a pre-existing bolt on a line to the left without accruing excessive rope drag.

I have always really liked our chosen name of In Through The Out Door and would very much like to see it correctly titled.

Thanks for giving due consideration to my request, and if you haven't climbed it from the ground to the first bolt with no intermediate protection give it a go and let me know how you like it.

Cheers,
William Mar 22, 2011
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.9+
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.9+
Climbing from the ground really adds a lot of rope drag. Don't try to link the first pitch and this climb. I thought the slab climbing was pretty easy since it wasn't so much slab as it is standing on little mounds. I also didn't think I could make the last move, so I seriously considered dynoing to the jug. When my partner saw me crouching for the dyno, he said "NO NO NO NO NO!!!!" If you think about it a little and test your stretchiness, you'll find a way to make it to that jug with a static move. Oct 10, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a PG13
The Kopischka finish is only marginally more difficult than the standard left exit, and is only a few moves longer. Either way you finish, this is a stout route for the grade. Last time I climbed this, my wife wanted to lead it, and took a whipper right at the top--she's a bit short and had a reach problem on the exit. Left exit is "5.9+" and the Kopischka exit is "5.10a." Personally I can't tell the difference. I'd be willing to agree with Richard's assessment as 10b! I found this significantly harder than "Higher Education" on Squat Rock in the S.Platte, and that's a no questions asked 10b. Sep 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Used to have to unclip the second? bolt after doing the move 'cause of drag. Sep 2, 2010
JayJurkowitsch
Laramie,WY
JayJurkowitsch   Laramie,WY
FA by Jeb Schenck in the early '70s ; original name was; Friday's Folly - done on a Friday in Feb. - very cold and no feeling in fingers. Jeb said it was the biggest folly he ever committed on a Friday!! Mar 26, 2007
richard magill
  5.10b
richard magill  
  5.10b
I did this yesterday - I found it to be an excercise in staying calm.Good gear to get you started, then 3 bolts to cover about 50 feet of steep slippery slab.

Heel and Toe gives this thing 9+, although I've done 11a's in Boulder Canyon that felt easier than this.

Good bolt anchors at the top.A double rope rappel will get you all the way down to the ground - a single will only get you back to the anchors at the ledge. Jul 19, 2004