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Routes in East Side

Angry Johnny T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Aqua-Vulva S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Artie The One Man Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atlas Shrugged S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chalk A Lot, Shake S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cherry Twist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleon Jones S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Sweat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contact High T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filth and the Fury, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fontainebleau Heron Addict S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Get On Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Girlfriend Route Direct, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save the Queen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godfather of Soul, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Teva Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mannish Boy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muddy Waters T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mulva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Negative 29 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Om On The Range S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sex Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shiva's Lunchbox S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skull Fracture S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slab My Bitch Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slabalanche S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soda Special, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Dark S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spontaneous Baby Consumption S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Standin On A Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swamp Thing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown chimney S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown, 50' L of Standing on a Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,063 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Start with some thin slab moves (5.10ish) to a high first bolt. Move left to the arete, then power through steep sandy jugs over a bulge. Cop a rest on a little ledge, than continue up the bulging arete above through some thinner moves (crux). Finish on cool black patina. This route has cool movement but lower rock quality than most routes at WW. In particular, watch for one large loose jug in the first overhang, and one large loose bit of patina up high. And watch for sand all over the damn thing.

Location

On the east wall, just upstream from the rappel in, directly across from the Hanging Judge. This route is the leftmost of three that can be started off of a small sandy beach.

Protection

Many bolts (11 or 12?) to chains

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
The nature of this climb has caused almost all the bolts to become loose. The bolts definitely need to be tightened and you should also use long draws in a few spots. Backcleaning the first bolt helps too. May 5, 2014
Pat Mac
Tempe
 
Pat Mac   Tempe
 
Best line for the grade in the canyon for sure! Sep 4, 2012