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Routes in East Side

Angry Johnny T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Aqua-Vulva S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Artie The One Man Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atlas Shrugged S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chalk A Lot, Shake S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cherry Twist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleon Jones S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Sweat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contact High T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filth and the Fury, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fontainebleau Heron Addict S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Get On Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Girlfriend Route Direct, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save the Queen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godfather of Soul, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Teva Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mannish Boy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muddy Waters T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mulva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Negative 29 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Om On The Range S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sex Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shiva's Lunchbox S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skull Fracture S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slab My Bitch Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slabalanche S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soda Special, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Dark S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spontaneous Baby Consumption S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Standin On A Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swamp Thing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown chimney S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown, 50' L of Standing on a Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Rehwinkle 2001
Page Views: 462 total, 11/month
Shared By: Toast with Butter on Aug 6, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is a very beautiful and interesting line. It's a mostly super fun slabby climb so you will probably love it or hate it. This climb's features and movement pushed my conception of what sandstone slab could be. In other words it blew my mind so hop on Start with a mantel into a seat big enough to lace up in. Clip the first bolt and move up and right to engage the techy and committing slab sequences (5.11) to a stance below the bulge. Use some good pockets and probably some small sloped rails to pull over the bulge (12c) and reach a couple little amazing quarter sized iron protrusions. From here the climbing is easy and fun to the top on varnish and rails.

Location

one bolted route left and downstream of Atlas Shrugged

Protection

10 bolts to anchors with leavers

Photos

Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
F.A. by Scott Rehwinkle-2001 Sep 13, 2014
Thanks, I've wondered about these routes for a while. Aug 9, 2014
Yes, the left one is Slab My Bitch Up 12b. I always thought the right was a 12a. Aug 7, 2014
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
 
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
 
PLease correct me if I have the FA wrong. I am fairly sure the climb to the left is called Slab My Bitch Up 12b. During heavy water flow a log smashed the first bolt hanger almost flat against the wall to the point where a draw wont even fit in it anymore. However, it can be easily toproped off the Fontaineblue anchors, although i found it to be super hard and even on TR with soft stealth rubber I got bitch slabbed. Aug 6, 2014