Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Rich Ludwig
Page Views: 2,411 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike on Aug 28, 2009 with updates from Rich Ludwig
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Location

Walk a little downstream from the Shady Grove area to where the creek narrows and hugs the right (East) wall. This route starts by a tree, a bit right (up-stream) from Mulva. There is often a small stack of 'cheater-stones' at the base.

Description

Another great scoop route. This one starts just right (up-stream) of Mulva. A thin face move (hence the cheater stones) leads to the first scoop. Work up through this, then 2 more scoops to the chains.

There is a second pitch that was added later, but I don't personally recommend it. It is 5.12-ish and not bolted very well (IMHO), and we both thought it was scary.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11b
An absolutely fabulous route. Three scoops followed by excellent patina edges makes for a unique, classic route. In my opinion this route is better than Mulva but both are not to be missed.

I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the starting moves are tricky and the rock seeps. Jun 13, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Via Rich Ludwig

"Yeah, the continuation is called "A Cold Slap in the Face". I need to add a bolt right after the traverse at the beginning. I hung a long sling off the first bolt when I did it (the 2nd pitch). Actually, it is/was meant to be climbed as a single pitch. I called it 5.12c when done that way.
There is a bolted anchor at the top of the wall here, so it is possible to TR this thing, just be careful setting it up!" Dec 27, 2015
Alexander K
The road
  5.11c
Alexander K   The road
  5.11c
The difficulty is probably highly dependent on how high you make your cheater stack, especially for the shorter folk. Apr 13, 2017