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Routes in East Side

Angry Johnny T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Aqua-Vulva S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Artie The One Man Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atlas Shrugged S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chalk A Lot, Shake S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cherry Twist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleon Jones S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Sweat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contact High T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filth and the Fury, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fontainebleau Heron Addict S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Get On Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Girlfriend Route Direct, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save the Queen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godfather of Soul, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lost Teva Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mannish Boy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muddy Waters T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mulva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Negative 29 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Om On The Range S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sex Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shiva's Lunchbox S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skull Fracture S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slab My Bitch Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slabalanche S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soda Special, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Dark S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spontaneous Baby Consumption S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Standin On A Corner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swamp Thing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown chimney S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown, 50' L of Standing on a Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Rich Ludwig
Page Views: 2,218 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike on Aug 28, 2009 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Location

Walk a little downstream from the Shady Grove area to where the creek narrows and hugs the right (East) wall. This route starts by a tree, a bit right (up-stream) from Mulva. There is often a small stack of 'cheater-stones' at the base.

Description

Another great scoop route. This one starts just right (up-stream) of Mulva. A thin face move (hence the cheater stones) leads to the first scoop. Work up through this, then 2 more scoops to the chains.

There is a second pitch that was added later, but I don't personally recommend it. It is 5.12-ish and not bolted very well (IMHO), and we both thought it was scary.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Alexander K
The road
  5.11c
Alexander K   The road
  5.11c
The difficulty is probably highly dependent on how high you make your cheater stack, especially for the shorter folk. Apr 13, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Via Rich Ludwig

"Yeah, the continuation is called "A Cold Slap in the Face". I need to add a bolt right after the traverse at the beginning. I hung a long sling off the first bolt when I did it (the 2nd pitch). Actually, it is/was meant to be climbed as a single pitch. I called it 5.12c when done that way.
There is a bolted anchor at the top of the wall here, so it is possible to TR this thing, just be careful setting it up!" Dec 27, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
An absolutely fabulous route. Three scoops followed by excellent patina edges makes for a unique, classic route. In my opinion this route is better than Mulva but both are not to be missed.

I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the starting moves are tricky and the rock seeps. Jun 13, 2011