Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in (e) South Face
|10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tobin Sorenson, et al. - 1970s FFA P1: Kevin Powell, Darrell Hensel - 1980 P2: John Long, Bob Gaines - 1984|
|Page Views:||3,317 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionBrilliant climbing on impeccable rock. Definitely stands out for it's quality, variety, and difficulty. Unusual (for Suicide) face climbing that follows a flake system on pitch one, with a extremely hard crux sequence on pitch two.
Pitch 1: After the first bolt (quite high - 5.9) do a few hard (10d) moves to gain the base of the corner/flake system that arches up and right. Pass two more bolts in the corner. The second bolt protects moves (12a) that are the crux of the pitch before more good climbing leads to the bolt at the top of the arch. Clip this bolt and move left (11b) then up into the 10a corner. Belay at the bolts. Superb climbing/quality pitch.
Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and make moves (11c) up to and over a small roof. Clip another bolt and prepare for a powerful, steep, reachy, desperate crux sequence moving up and right to the good hold. Easy from the end of the crux. Both of the bolts on this pitch can be difficult to clip because they were placed on the aid FA. There may, or may not, be slings in place to facilitate free climbing clips. This pitch may be a little height dependent - the taller the better. Hard pitch with good climbing in a great location.
There is a two anchor to the left of the end of the second pitch. An 80' rappel reaches back to the belay at the end of pitch one.