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Routes in (e) South Face

10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorenson, et al. - 1970s FFA P1: Kevin Powell, Darrell Hensel - 1980 P2: John Long, Bob Gaines - 1984
Page Views: 3,317 total, 29/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Brilliant climbing on impeccable rock. Definitely stands out for it's quality, variety, and difficulty. Unusual (for Suicide) face climbing that follows a flake system on pitch one, with a extremely hard crux sequence on pitch two.

Pitch 1: After the first bolt (quite high - 5.9) do a few hard (10d) moves to gain the base of the corner/flake system that arches up and right. Pass two more bolts in the corner. The second bolt protects moves (12a) that are the crux of the pitch before more good climbing leads to the bolt at the top of the arch. Clip this bolt and move left (11b) then up into the 10a corner. Belay at the bolts. Superb climbing/quality pitch.

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and make moves (11c) up to and over a small roof. Clip another bolt and prepare for a powerful, steep, reachy, desperate crux sequence moving up and right to the good hold. Easy from the end of the crux. Both of the bolts on this pitch can be difficult to clip because they were placed on the aid FA. There may, or may not, be slings in place to facilitate free climbing clips. This pitch may be a little height dependent - the taller the better. Hard pitch with good climbing in a great location.

There is a two anchor to the left of the end of the second pitch. An 80' rappel reaches back to the belay at the end of pitch one.

Location

About 40' right of Archangel, at the low point of the South Face proper.

Protection

Bolts and thin gear.
johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12 PG13
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12 PG13
To me, the second pitch is only slightly more difficult but an easier pitch to lead. Just an incredible line. I lead both pitches with no falls Saturday afternoon. Sep 11, 2011
I still think the first pitch (1st done free by Hensil and Powell) is one of the best couple face pitches at Suicide. Perfect rock and pretty continuous. The last pitch is a wicked hard boulder sequence off dimes that I couldn't do till I went to Roubidoux for a month or so and got my dimes dialed. Very fond memories. Must have done the first pitch three times before I got the 2nd all free no hangs or weighting the rope.

JL Jul 20, 2011