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Routes in (e) South Face

10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ivan Couch, Mike Dent, and Larry Reynolds
Page Views: 3,103 total, 21/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent lieback. The only caution is that a large flake is wedged into the crack, about half way up. It has stayed there through many ascents, but don't pull on it too hard. Rappel from the top or scramble off. Being in a large, left-facing dihedral, it is in the shade in the morning.

Protection

standard rack, with several 2" - 3" pieces

Photos

Ben Crowell
  5.3
Ben Crowell  
  5.3
Super fun layback. Rap off the bolts with a single 60 m rope (not the horn, which requires two ropes). Vogel and Gaines say to "avoid" the loose flake in the middle, but if you really didn't touch the flake at all, I don't think the climb would go at this grade. The layback was sweet and not strenuous, felt like 5.3 to me. The final short vertical crack is a little more strenuous, and 3 out of the 4 people I've seen climb this have gotten a foot stuck in it. Jul 25, 2015
Localclimber  
5.6
there are rap anchors at the top rapped with a 60m rope. Apr 25, 2011