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Routes in (e) South Face

10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Paul Van Betten, and Jay Smith, 1987
Page Views: 424 total, 4/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A real South Face classic. Good climbing with some scary moves down low thrown into the mix.

Climb over the small overlaps on the slab at the start of the route. A scary 11b mantle above the second bolt provides some excitement. At the 4th bolt angle left, passing 3 more bolts before gaining the two bolt anchor on the ledge. Thin slab moves (12a) yield a challenging crux at the last bolt.

Location

Left side of the South Face, about 80' right of Short Story.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Kent Rogers
Beaver, PA
Kent Rogers   Beaver, PA
Boomerang 5.9 From the ledge atop the first pitch of Twilight Delight, traverse right past three bolts, then loop back and up past another bolt (scary SMC hangers) to a belay bolt. Rap 130' feet or continue left to reach the rap anchor on Hell's Angel (80 feet to Twilight Ledge) or father left to finish on Short Story (5.0) to the top. FA Alan Bartlett, et al., 1979 Apr 24, 2016