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Routes in (e) South Face

10b or not 10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crucifiction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disco Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hades T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell's Angel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
It's a Mayracole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Major T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Minuet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miscalculation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Palm Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Picante T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Story T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 983 total · 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This clean, well-protected hand crack is in the sun all day. It would be a good route for a novice leader. You can rappel from the top.

Protection

mostly hand-sized pieces

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
5.6
Donno   Newport Beach
5.6
This felt 5.6 to me. Hands, fists & OW. You can lead to the rap bolts on Spring Cleaning. Jun 22, 2016
Ben Crowell
  5.3
Ben Crowell  
  5.3
I thought it was hard to reconcile Vogel's 5.1 rating on this with his 5.6 rating on the nearby Spring Cleaning. They both felt mostly about 5.3 to me in modern ratings. Probably this is because of the many decades of grade inflation separating the times when the two ratings were assigned. A 4" cam can be used near the top. We found it a little hard to identify Minor from the Vogel guidebook, which doesn't give much of a verbal description and appears to mislabel the route on the topo, showing it as if it were the mossy-chossy 4th class gully way off to the right. Going from left to right, I think you have (1) Major, a chimney; (2) Minor, a fist crack; (3) an unnamed 5.0 finger crack with a tree growing in it; and (4) the mossy gully. Rap off with a single 60 m rope from the bolts at the top of Spring Cleaning (not the horn described by Vogel, which requires two ropes). Jul 25, 2015